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Photosensitize Process

Communications Equipment Manufacturers

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Construction Equipment Manufacturers

Photosensitized plates are made with the use of light and radiant energy. In fact, if you were to look up the word photosensitize in the dictionary, you will find that this is an action where an item is sensitized to light or radiant energy. This makes such an object react in a specific way when exposed to these thing that the item was made sensitive to.

In the creation of photosensitized metal nameplates, the metal that is used is anodized aluminum, also known by the name Metalphoto®. This is a type of aluminum that has an anodic layer covering the print or copy that is found on top of the aluminum material. Copy is produced by embedding color dies into the pores of the aluminum surface and then sealed, creating a product that is far more durable than lithographed or silk-screened plates. Photosensitized nameplates are relatively low-cost in limited quantities, and can be produced quickly.

Metalphoto® is a special aluminum that is often utilized in the creation of durable and high-resolution plates, as well as control panels and labels. This particular metal creates durable images due to the fact that these are sealed within the metal, which makes it resistant to sunlight degradation, corrosion, high temperatures, abrasion, and even chemical exposure. This photographic marking technique can be used to create high resolution images as well as variable information like anti-counterfeit security features, machine readable barcodes, and serailzed information.

There are two general methods used in the creation of photo anodized aluminum plates, or photosensitive anodised aluminum plates. One involves the use of a silver compound which develops into a black, silver-based design or print. The other involves the use of a photo-resist, and is often the method used to create colored images onto anodized aluminum (although the first method can also have colored dyes added into its production).

Nameplates, 87 Empire Drive, St. Paul, Minnesota 55103-1856

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Resin experiment

In my first post I went over why I prefer Amazing Clear Cast to Easy Cast Resin. I dont want to seem one sided, I originally started with Easy Cast resin and it was definitely hit & miss. I tried all the tricks & tips I could find.

Even with these tips I often found out of the same batch of poured resin, some of my pieces would remain tacky. Some would cure perfectly. I was using the same types of bezels & following all the rules. It seemed very unstable and unpredictable. So i switched, however it left me with a good amount of Easy Cast Resin at my disposal. I spent $25 on them, I couldnt see myself just throwing them away! So to better back why I dont use easy cast ive started a little battle of the resins experiment. I know that some people swear by easy cast, and to them I say I am jealous. I wish I could get it to work for me, but alas, there has been no hope. BUT in a last attempt, I have followed all the guidelines today, and poured a batch of easy Cast resin.

The temperature is 82 outside, 73 inside, humidity is 50% ( I live in the south, 50% humidity is like heaven and doesnt happen everyday).

Lets start from the beginning!

Doming Trays ( i love them since theyre nicely leveled)

I have given my resin bottles a 15 minute soak in warm water, to the point that the bottles are warm (BUT NOT HOT) to the touch.

Pour equal parts of resin & hardener, Resin is seriously yuck to touch, so ya always gotta be careful, but i usually get it everywhere!

I obviously didnt get photographic evidence of this, but do you really need it? I mix at a slow-medium pace, making sure not to whip the resin up, every 30 seconds I stop, scrape the bottoms of the cup, and then scrape my mixing stick to make sure its fully mixed. I mix for 4 minutes. I watch the clock, mixing is so boring. What I have found with Easy Cast VS Amazing clear cast is that EasyCast bubbles dont pop easily for me. Amazing Clear Cast pops the bubbles as its mixing. If those bubbles even get near the top, they pop. But easy cast resin wasnt popping for me, which is no big deal since I dont focus on popping bubbles until theyre in their shallow molds. I usually have several other cups around for separate colors, with their own mixing wands. Today Im using Castin Craft Red Opaque Pigment & Castin Craft Black Opaque Pigment.

2 things I have learned with these pigments:

1. The red bottle is nearly open-and pour easy. I give it a few shakes to just be sure, but its usually not even needed. But the black, you seriously cant shake this bottle, beat it against a counter top, whatever, enough. Even after you pour, MIX MIX MIX MIX MIX that black into that resin! Or itll be uneven with opaque and slightly translucent pigments. Which is a nightmare. If you notice in the photo above, you can see that the red resin stick shows that its slightly translucent higher up on the mixing stick. Stir it some MOAR!

2. Adding less is best, youre going to have to experiment. Finding that happy medium is difficult, I wont even lie. Pouring too little of the pigment will make it slightly translucent, but adding to much will make your piece bendy like Taffy.

I did snap a photo of my resin after it was mixed, all bubbly. But like I said, I focus on bubbles AFTER theyre in their molds.

This is probably my least favorite part. I instantly regret every cup of coffee & every 8 oz redbull ive drank because i get so shakey trying not to make a mess, but I always do. If youre using molds, put some playdough under the mold BEFORE pouring to level the mold. I actually found a playdough recipe so I could do this. Check out this amazing recipe forPlaydough!

Popping Bubbles. I use a long-necked lighter, like the ones people BBQ with. Wave the flame over the resin, and Ive found its actually a little difficult to burn resin, but I might just be lucky, so be careful because resin is flammable! The key I have found to minimizing resin bubbles is to pour shallow layers. I pop the initial bubbles after theyre in their molds, 2 hours later, I like to come back and pop any more bubbles that may have developed when I add inclusions (Photos, beads, paper, whatevers). Its best to pop the bubbles while the resin is still somewhat liquid to avoid pop marks.

Step Six: Put those molds somewhere safe.

I keep mine in the oven, not alot of humidity, and out of the way. Plus I spend enough time in the kitchen, I can check on them whenever I want. I usually lay a piece of paper or cardboard over the heating coils in the oven incase any resin tries to escape and fall into my oven. I do however have ALOT of glitter in my ovenlol YAY GLITTER! Sorry husband 😦

Step Seven: CLEAN IT UPPPP while youre waiting.

I start cleaning instantly if there were any spills or drippings. My kitchen counter is already ugly, but no reason to make it worse!

I use alcohol & Pam (or similar) to clean everything. Measuring cups, mixing wands, counter tops, my hands. lol

Spray it with pam, wipe it as best as you can, then just clean it with rubbing alcohol or nail polish remover with acetone. Although I prefer Rubbing Alcohol, ive used both.

I should say to do this in some kind of cleanly manner, but I cant stand the stickiness or resin, i really just drown everything in pam & rubbing alcohol lol.

Also its a great tip to keep the cups you poured resin with, just long enough to check the tackiness of the resin. The worst feeling in the world is thinking your resin is done, touching it, and leaving a fingerprint across youre super amazing, favorite piece. Instead of doing that, check your resin cups. If the leftover resin is still tacky, you can bet your resin piece is.

I know alot of places say that a fingerprint is impossible to fix, but thats just not true. Its not ruined, with the right patience and techniques it can be fixed. I cant tell you how many resin pieces ive thrown away thinking they were just destroyed and as ive learned, found they could have been saved :(.

Thats about it for now, check back tomorrow for the results of this resin pour!

I dropped the ball, I should have dropped the mic.

Easy Cast VS Amazing Clear Cast Part 1 ( Easy Cast)

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Our new CCR Clear Coating Epoxy Resin is exclusive to Adelaide Moulding & Casting Supplies. CCR Clear Coating Epoxy Resin is a water clear, UV stable, low viscosity resin system for coating, doming and resin art applications. It is a solvent free epoxy specifically formulated as a clear, ultra-high gloss coating system that will self-level and cure at room temperature. The system has excellent air-release and has been optimised for extended UV stability.This resin is not suitable for embedding, casting or coating more than 2mm thick,we recommend ourSuper Sap CCR Slowfor these applications.

Get my Clear Casing Resin and PearlX colours for my pen making there.

Would love to try some of the other craft products they have there. Maybe next time.

Popped in just before Christmas, very helpful, great tips provided and fantastic to have someone based in Adelaide where you can test the fragrances and touch and feel what they are selling. Absolutely loved their range of jars for candle making and also that you can purchase boxes for the candles, fabulous. Great customer service, thanks guys

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