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Harbor Freight Riser Block for 32208 14 bandsaw is on!

Harbor Freight Riser Block for 32208 14 bandsaw is on!

Installing the Harbor Freight 24536-0ZZA Riser Block Kit. I will endeavor to make this write up as thorough as possible, however I unfortunatley did NOT photograph everything needed. Sorry…

For those of us that own the Central Machinery model 32206 single speed 14 wood working band saw, or the Central Machinery model 32208 4 speed 14 wood working band saw marketed by Harbor Freight Tools, there are several options for riser blocks. Several users have reported that the Grizzly riser block kit for the Grizzly GO555 is a direct fit. However insuring absolute proper fittment, as well as a color match, which with the Central Machinery green, is going to be tough to do, the best bet is to install a kit designed, and marketed for this specific saw. Available only from Harbor Freight parts, item 24536-0ZZA Riser Block Kit is a direct bolt on with proper fit, function, and appearance…

A closeup of the Harbor Freight 24536-0ZZA Riser Block Kit box contents. You get a block, a 105 general purpose blade, an extended length post, a long bolt, nut, washer set, extended length METAL blade guard (the standard guard is plastic), and an extending front upper blade guard. Insure all the parts are there.

You should already have the tension off your blade, the blade should be cool, and of course the saw, unplugged. To release tension on the blade, turn the tensioner wheel counter clockwise until the blade nearly falls off. I made sure of this by removing the upper and lower wheel guards, as well as the throat plate, and the stop pin in the table slot. Once the blade is loose, losen the guide blocks, remove the blade, and store safely.

Remove the upper blade guide, as well as the upper blade guard by loosening the 10mm bolts, and sliding the components apart.

Next, move on to removing the guide post shield. Remove the guide post knob completely by hand, then with a wrench (18mm -ish, SAE wouldnt fit at all, nor would 17mm, but 18mm was a sloppy fit). You can now also draw out the original guide post.

Here is where I wish I had taken photos. Facing the wheels, remove the rear blade guard, and set aside. With a pair of pliers, and a cloth to prevent marring, remove the guard mount stud on the left side of the upper wheel sheild. The part on the left side that the knob threads onto that holds the upper wheel guard in place. There is a sheet metal cosmetic guard just below that that the blade guard covers when it is installed, with a single phillips head screw attaching it at the bottom. Remove the screw, and remove the cover. If it does not come out, you may have to remove the 2 phillips head screws that secure the upper wheel shield, they are close to the tension assembly, you will have to rotate the wheel to get to them one at a time. You have now exposed the bolt that holds the 2 main parts of the saw together.

Using a strong gripping pair of pliers, and a 24mm socket and ratchet, loosen the bolt and nut, and remove. Using a mallet, whack the upper frame close to the joint, while FIRMLY holding the upper section with the other hand. It should loosen easily. Pull the two halves apart, and set the upper section down.

The block has pins, and sockets on it, the pins point up. On mine, the California cancer warning faces away from the operator. The pins line up only one way. Line it up. I had to use the mallet to seat my pins and sockets together from the block to the lower section. Next take the long bolt, and one washer, get them ready to install, then place the upper half on the block, while feeding the bolt throug the block, and the upper section. This bolt WILL NOT go through with the upper section on the block, then take the other washer, and feed it through, thread the nut on as far as you can get it by hand, and then tighten with 2 22mm wrenches. Reinstall the cosmetic shield, the guard stud, and if removed, the phillips screws for the upper wheel sheild. Install new blade, set intitial tension on the blade, and set the the wheel / blade runout so that the blade tracks in the middle of both wheels. Install rear blade guard, and reinstall upper, and lower wheel guards.

Install the new guide post, original guide post shield, upper front blade guard, and upper blade guide, install the dust collection hose if used, throat plate, table pin, and finally, set the blade guide to the correct depth and width according to either Harbor Freights instructions (lousy) or the How to tune your bandsaw video on the Wood Magazine website.

A closeup of the rear blade guard, and block assembled onto the saw…

A closeup of the upper blade guard and guide post assembled onto the saw…

And finally, a full view of the assembled saw…

Now, assuming I wrote this up right, and you followed it right, you should now have your riser block succesfully installed, and the saw tuned up ready to go… Mind you, I did this solo, while the instructions say to have a helper. I am pretty good at juggling two things at once.. A helper might be nice if you cant hold half a saw, feed a bolt, feed a washer and start a nut all at the same time…

Now all I am waiting on is delivery of my roller guides, and Timberwolf blades, and I need to try to pick up the fence this weekend… WOO HOO it is coming along… Need to build that resawing jig soon!

My wife rushed my original post… I wanted an install howto write up.

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That makes me want to order mine now, and I dont have that bandsaw. But I do plan on getting a HF BS when I return to the States in a couple of years.

Experience is what you get when you dont get what you wanted!

I have updated the original thread to put what I originally wanted to put, which was a howto writeup as well..

This setup came together really fast…

As far as I can tell from the little use I have put mine through, this seems like a very sturdy, well made saw, that is just lacking some of the higher dollar features such as a tension quick release like the Delta, or the roller guides like the Grizzly… Some quick bargain shopping can result in having a great saw, for a lot less money once shipping is factored in…

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cool! i am glad to see that you are happy with stuff.

i like the a/c unit idea at the bottom of the garage door. how well does it work? give some temperature examples if possible.

Originally posted bydbhostView Post…. well made saw, that is just lacking some of the higher dollar features such as a tension quick release like the Delta, …..A few of us went through this a while back. Tension Release setup can be ordered from Grizzly (use the G0555 parts manual for related parts) for about $25 plus a couple bucks for shipping. A search should turn up a parts list and I believe Popeye did a write up on the mod to his HF bandsaw.

Last edited byStan;08-23-2008, 10:51 AM.From the NW corner of Montana.

I have a thread for that discussion going already in the Shop Setup and Layout forum.

But to summarize. It takes a while to cool down. And the doors need better insulation. Not exactly an ideal sitaution, but not horrid either…

With 104 degree outside temps, it got the inside of the shop down to the mid to lower 80s, still warm, but not too hot to keep me out of my shop…

I am thinking of redoing the wall idea, so that I have something that will go in place with the door completely up, and seal against the sides…

Hey, do you have photos of how that lever goes in or works?

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thanks for the link, i must have missed that thread.

I have a thread for that discussion going already in the Shop Setup and Layout forum.

Hey, do you have photos of how that lever goes in or works?Guess the thread for Pats pictures got broken when I moved to a new server…

Here is a proper link to his gallery of pictures for the tension lever upgrade on his HF bandsaw.

Hope that helps.From the NW corner of Montana.

And yeah, the link I gave to my other thread was for Omar…

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That makes me want to order mine now, and I dont have that bandsaw. But I do plan on getting a HF BS when I return to the States in a couple of years.

You can see more pictures of that BS if you search this site under Central Machinery model 32208 4 speed 14 band saw. I added there some pictures of pieces I added to make it stronger (you do not need to, but it helps with any possible vibration), and you can see there also a jig i did for that BS to cut circles as butter.

The course of history shows that as a government grows, liberty decreases….it happens the same with a big shop.

This thread is a decade old but if anyone searching to upgrade their old Harbor Freight 14 32208 or 32206 bandsaw with the 6 riser block as I just did, they may find this info helpful.

I have an original 32208 multi speed. The current setup guide in the HF website for this discontinued model is version 11. The riser block kits part 09645 and 24536-002a are no longer available. Some of the HF staff will give you 13836 for $127 but it is not compatible according to their info.

The Grizzly h3716 has a 3/4 post and runs around $120 with shipping. Its green (different than HF?) I couldnt get any answers on it.

The JET 708717A (the A is very important!) is a 3/4 guide post kit that has a riser that fits perfectly if you dont mind a white riser block. If it doesnt line up, you have it backwards (not upside down). Available from maxtoolsales periodically for $90 with shipping included on eBay. I chose to mismatch colors because the JET 708717A has a METAL blade guard rather than the plastic rear guard others have noted that some kits have. The JET guide post has a V-groove rather than the HF flat side. The only modification I had to do was put two flat rubber hose washers after the bottom rear blade guard (jet BS has a screw hole in the lower neck to fasten it down that HF 32208 lacks) to keep it from clacking around under the bottom panel.