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Made of hardened steel. This specially designed stake lets you expand your forming and shaping capabilities. Stake stands approximately 3 Inches tall. This specially designed doming stake lets you expand your forming and shaping capabilities. This Miniature Doming Stake has a shallow curved top with one sharp end and one tightly curved convex end. It can be used for forming bezels, rings and other small metal objects. Measures 3-1/8 (80 mm) long and 5/8 (16 mm) wide. Note: This item is shown in an steel tool holder(Will not fit the Fretz Miniature Stake Holder) that is not included with the stake; the holder is available separately

.- Measures 3-1/8 (80 mm) long and 5/8 (16 mm) wide.

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This entry was posted inDoming Tagand taggeddoming,forming,jewelry,shapmetal,stake,toolson

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I am happy to take commissions and have a large stash of stones and fordite for you to choose from. Since I cut and polish the fordite myself I can cut and set a piece for you to make an extra special item. I ship using Royal Mails first class signed for service or special delivery depending on the value of the item, it should arrive the day after shipping. Im happy to post to a work address if there will be no one at home to sign for your package. Should you wish to return an item just let me know within 14 days of receiving it and send it back but you will have to pay the postage for sending it back (I refund the initial postage).

This necklace has 3 eye catching bullseye patterned pieces of fordite (probably from Fords plant in Wayne) which are bezel set in sterling silver and finished with sterling silver chain, clasp and extender. The bulls eyes have a grey base with concentric rings in blue, silver, red and black, a lot of the rings are sparkly and the 3 pieces are well matched. The fordite is set in open back settings so the necklace could be reversed to show the very different pattern on the other side but because of the doming it wont sit as well the wrong way round.

So whats fordite? Its many layers of cured paint that built up in the old spray booths at car plants (hence the earlier reference to Fords Wayne plant). As the panels were sprayed excess paint would build up on the rails that were used to slide the panels into the curing ovens and it is this material that became fordite, most was scraped but some was taken out of the factories to be used in jewellery and curios. Due to changes in how cars are painted very little of this material is formed now (if any, Ive heard the booths being referred to as zero waste) so if you are a fan of cars or just like the unusual then this is perfect for you. I have a stash of fordite from other factories so drop me a message if you would like something different.

Measure 16 in with 2 in extender, central fordite piece is bit over 1 in across by 3/4 in drop. Comes gift boxed.

This item will be posted to you bySasha Garrettwithin3 daysof receiving payment.

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Unless faulty, the following types of items are non-refundable: items that are personalised, bespoke or made-to-order to your specific requirements; items which deteriorate quickly (e.g. food), personal items sold with a hygiene seal (cosmetics, underwear) in instances where the seal is broken.

Designed by Sasha Garrett in Cambridge, July 2018

JewelleryNecklaces & PendantsSterling Silver

Translucent Screen Printed Resin Jewelry Tutorial

Translucent Screen Printed Resin Jewelry Tutorial

Not too long ago, I had a wonderful lunch date with my friendHelen Breil. She is a polymer clay artist best known for her gorgeous contemporary style pieces. She also designs her own silk screens and textures plates which aresold through various retailers. She told me she hadrecently updated her silkscreen demonstration. A must see! She shared a lot creative ideas and got my creative juices going!

Helen kindly gave me two of her silk screens for review. Her beautiful designs are based on her Zentangle style doodling. Im not saying this because she is my friend – but her range of silk screen designs are some of the best I have ever come across.

The secret behind screen printed resin jewelry is the use of shrink plastic. I used theShrinky Dinks brands frosted sheets. This is the base on which the screen printing is done. You could do it on stiff paper or card but this non-porous material provides a firm base for screen printing. You also do not have to seal the shrink plastic first unlike paper. It also gives the project a translucent quality. I chose the frosted ones because one side is sanded which will help paints to adhere.

For my first project design, I added a spray tint to the shrink plastic sheet.

I then taped down the silk screen with some painters tape. Helen used a smaller spreader. As I wanted to use the entire silk screen, I used an inexpensive plastic putty knife from my local hardware store. It covers a bigger area quickly.

You can use acrylic paints. I just happened to have this gold colored glass paint so it got pressed into use. Helen says that you must NOT use watery paints otherwise these will not work well.

As Helen recommended, I did have a plastic dish of water ready to receive the silk screen and putty knife. These were then whisked immediately to the sink for a thorough clean before the paint dried.

Once the paint dried, I punched out various shapes using paper punches.

You are probably expecting me to shrink the cut outs down in a toaster oven, right? Nope. Screen printing requires a lot of paint. Shrinking condenses all that paint! As you can see below – the before and after if you do so. That is why lighter applications of pigment are used on shrink plastic in expectation of a concentration effect.

I also screen printed on just the frosted sheet as is.

Once the paint dried, I used water color pencils to add some color accents. When done, I applied a bit of water to distribute the pigment lightly.

I also cut out shrink plastic shapes and colored them black with acrylic marker pens. I then added a little Super New Glue (not the same as super glue which gets brittle after a while) to affix overlapping shapes.

And thats what I used here -Brilliant resin-courtesy of Little Windows. Mix a batch of resin following instructions. Then dome the pieces, one side at a time. Remember to cover the curing resin to prevent dust from settling. The resin pieces are okay to touch after 12 hours and will fully cure in a day or two.

Do you remember what happened to the sea glass whenI created the see through pendants? The frostiness disappeared. Thats what happens to the frosted shrink plastic sheets – the uncolored parts turned clear. So the pieces now have a translucent look!

I pushed the envelope so to speak by attempting to add a doming resin to larger pieces. What I found is the surface tension is greater. This really pulled in the resin from the edge (see below). This then necessitated having to add additional layers of resin. (Note that I added a gold edge with a gold metallic pen)

One the pieces are cured, the edges were sanded smooth with wet-dry sandpaper. Use 400 or 600 grit. I just use one grade but you can go finer in stages to get really super smooth edges.

A spiral ratchet drill is a good manual tool to make holes in resin pieces. (See my review here). But as I had so many holes to drill, I used the hand drill to make pilot holes and finished the drilling quickly with my rotary Dremel tool with an appropriately sized diamond bit.

While the Dremel was a real time saver, there is a risk of delaminating the resin layers as you can see from the back of the purple piece :

Overall though, screen printed resin work like this produces cool translucent jewelry. You can also use the technique to create fun backgrounds for all sorts of other resin designs.

Shown here are some of the ways I finished the pieces. I usedParawires fine silver plated silver wire(which I previously received for review) for the wire wrapped ones.

The rich colors of the gold and purple pendant looks very different depending on how it is photographed!

You can see some shimmery streaks in the left black and white earrings below. Resin spray would have removed that quickly but I didnt have any. So the cautionary note is this : streaks are more obvious on dark colors.

My first attempt at the black and white bib necklace was way too wide and not curved enough. So I created a bookmark with it!

I used natural light, my iPhone 6S with the camera+ app and the Modahaus TS320 tabletop studio and the Steady Stand (medium). To get the graduated grey backgrounds , I put the black sheet behind the white. The necklaces were suspended from a Modahaus Steady Stand and their new rostrum. Check out myHow to Photograph Jewelry Webinar- these will resume in late August /September.

I receive books and products for review. I do receive a small fee for any products purchased through affiliate links. The opinions expressed are solely my own. They would be the same whether or not I receive any compensation.

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Brilliant, and very, very cool! I was just playing around with shrink plastic yesterday, but certainly nothing like your fabulous pieces. I may need fo investigate Helens screens. Now thats a process I have never tried! Hmmm….

Ive said this before and Im saying it again – Arent you the smart cookie!!

OMG Pearl! These are simply gorgeous!! (and you never let on you were trying this….you!!) :0)

I cant decide which are my favourite. Im not a gold person but the gold and purple are simply stunning! And Ive always loved black – black – black so your blacks are wonderful too! And yes I do like the blue – its soft and comforting to the eye. See! I cant choose!

Wonderful tutorial my friend! And so well done!

The Blay Resin Stamping Technique!! Thats it!! Claim it as your own Pearl!!!!!!

SO this has brought legitimacy to shrinky-dink jewelry. I NEVER thought I would see the day.

As I have often said, Dian, its not what you use but how you use it that counts. I have seen some artisans do remarkable things with shrinky dinks so dont count it out!

All these pieces are gorrrrgeous, Pearl! What a fantastic idea and detailed tutorial. Thank you!!! (Yes, Helens designs are awesome!)

Pearl, I really enjoyed this article! You did an awesome job on those translucent resin pendants. WOW!!

Im not familiar with screen printing but congratulations for coming up with an original idea to use it with polymer clay!

Youre AWESOME! Thanks for the comment and feedback. You do make a difference on my blog!

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Learn how to take better pictures!!for my special webinar mailing list to learn when the next webinar will be and get information.

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resin compounds – epoxy lyurethane silicones

doming resin, potting compounds, thermal compounds …. epoxy, silicones, polyurethane…

doming resin, potting compound, thermal compounds..

Established in 1983, Fong Yong is a leading resins manufacturer, who has devoted to the R&D of Resins for a long time. Our production line include epoxy, Polyurethane, silicone. Suitablel for epoxy coating, polyurethane coating,clear epoxy doming, doming, polyurethane doming resin, urethane doming, doming resin series, resin jewelry, clear resin, epoxy potting compound, silicone potting compounds, epoxy silicone encapsulating, encapsulating compounds, encapsulating electronic, RTV silicone, casting resin, silicone gel, thermal compounds, heatsink compounds, silicone coating, silicone sealant, adhesives..

Doming resin (clear doming) : Epoxy, PU (Polyurethane, urethane), UV cured resin

1) Hard / Flexible / non-sage system resin

a. PU (Polyurethane, urethane) doming resin

c. Epoxy flexible system doming resin

d. Epoxy non-sag system doming resin

2) High gloss clear and colors system

3) Application for decoration, Ornaments, Gifts & Souvenirs

suit for various materials such as metal parts and plastic products ex., stickers, labels, automotive emblems, solar panels, badges, luggage tags, key-rings, nameplates, hair-pins, picture frames, metal parts, signs,button, cufflink, PVC, PC, ABS products and various promotional accessories etc…

It can resist least 15 KV even at 1 mm thickness.

Good adhesion properties to most materials.

Cured products exhibit good resistance in high level of acid and base solvents.

4. Good protection of design secrete

Cured products perform high-durometer, not easy to be destroyed.

1. Excellent stability to temperature alteration

Stability over a wide temperature range from -40 to 200 oC.

Prolonged outdoor usage, not easily age, harden, crack, and flake off.

3. Good protection from mechanical shock and vibration.

Cured silicones exhibit excellent elasticity, provide good protection from mechanical

The backbone of silicones contain inorganic silicon, provides excellent insulation;

therefore, it is very suitable for applications of electronic products.

crystal clear two parts epoxy doming — hard (rigid) type system

crystal clear two parts epoxy doming — soft (flexible) type system

crystal clear two parts epoxy doming — non-sag type system

epoxy potting/encapsulating/coating/sealant compound

silicone potting compound, adhesive, coating

Cpu Cooling Systems- thermal compound, thermal paste, heatsink compound, heat sinks paste/grease

How to make resin jewelry?

I have some questions regarding the basic coverage and techniques of resin jewelry, Im very much a newbie with resin. Im planning to make some transparent/colored pendants and beads with it. 1) What are the basic and most essential supplies for making resin jewelry? (coloring dyes, driller, etc.)…

I have some questions regarding the basic coverage and techniques of resin jewelry, Im very much a newbie with resin. Im planning to make some transparent/colored pendants and beads with it.

1) What are the basic and most essential supplies for making resin jewelry? (coloring dyes, driller, etc.) Where to buy them and what brands?

2) How do you make a mold to cast resin into?

3) How do I make the resin beads/pendants have a metallic faux surface?

4) Is it possible the resin beads/pendants have a crystallized/multi faceted gem-like texture? How is it done?

5) Can you paint on the surface of the resin beads/pendants? What paint should I use? (Ive had an experience with painting polymer clay with acrylic but it came out having a dull rough texture.. Is it the same with resin?)

Thats all. You dont have to answer all of those, if you have some knowledge to share specifically for one question, the contribution is still greatly appreciated.

Are you sure you want to delete this answer?

I use Ice Resin which is a non-toxic jewelers doming resin. It can be mixed in small quantities. Ive only used commercial molds at this point. Ive added color with acrylic paints and mica powders mixed into the resin. You can paint the surface or add papers then coat with resin for additional gloss. Ive also used colored resin as a sort of poor mans enamel for PMC projects. I buy Ice Resin at Abeille in Brookline. The product is a bit more expensive than other resins but its easy to use, non-toxic and doesnt bubble. Hope this helps.

check craft stores. my local Michaels has resin for 15bucks. You can put pretty much anything in the resin. Metals, plastics, magazine clippings, bugs, flowers, leaves, etc. Anything printed by a home inkjet printer onto regular paper has a tendancy to smudge and run. Crepe or tissue paper is great for slightly tinting the resin.

You can buy the colored or you can mix and knead well with the color you like, or you can paint on top after you shape and bake, you should apply a few coats of varnish (for acrylic). To make resin beads you can rolled them to a small ball and cut gem like with sharp cutter, make hole with big needle and bake, Good luck

…You *can* use something else besides colorants sold for resin to color it but those things must be oil-based not water-based. So use artists oil paints (in tubes). They will be transparent naturally, but if you want opaque colorants add some Titanium White to any color and it will become opaque.

…The line of resin called Easy Cast is an epoxy resin, but its a slightly tweaked version of epoxy resin which doesnt get as hard as regular epoxy resins, especially if items are thin or exposed to even as much heat as body heat. It does have the advantage though that it can be used in *deep* molds whereas regular epoxy resins cant be used in deep molds (shallow molds okay)… for deep molds, polyester resin is used instead.

1). You can find all those things discussed on this resin page at my site:

Brands will be listed separately under the catgories for Polyester resins and Epoxy resins since they are different lorants will be discussed more in the two subcategories called Coloring… drilling will be discussed primarily under epoxy resins in the subcategory Cutting, Drilling, Sanding, etc.

2). You can buy various molds (usually HDPE plastic or silicone), or you can make molds for resins from 2-part silicone putties, or from some other things as long as you a release is used –silicone gives great results though.

Theres loads of info on using silicone to make your own silicone molds on this page:

…click especially on *2-Part Silicone Putties* and *Brands*

3). Not sure what you mean by the metallic faux surface, but various glitters and metallic things can be mixed into the resin or embedded in it.

4). If you want a multi-faceted surface, youll want to use a multi-faceted mold.

5). I think you should be able to paint on resins with acrylics since I know that water-based sealers (like clear polyurethanes, etc) can be used, on epoxy resins at least, and paints intended for glass might work too. Acrylics would probably take a few coats though, and might require roughing the surface a bit first.

If you use an acrylic paint thats not a *gloss* acrylic paint (on polymer clay or on resin), youll end up with a matte appearance. If you want to add a gloss surface on top of matte acrylic paint, add a coat of water-based polyurethane, clear acrylic nail polish, Pledge-Future floor polish, or various other most scratchable surfaces like Diamond Glaze or gloss acrylic medium, etc…. or you could just make sure the acrylic paints you use are the gloss version.

P.S. Dont know why acrylic paints should have a rough texture on polymer clay unless you didnt have a smooth surface to begin with (polymer clay can be sanded if nec). Usually *2 coats* of acrylic paint are necessary on cured polymer clay for best coverage, but you could also try more coats if your clay wasnt smooth to begin with, or use a coat of white gesso as the first coat then the colored paint.

(Also, better quality acrylic paints, and especially the artist-quality acrylic paints in tubes, will give better coverage than the cheapest craft acrylic paints.)

There is a load of info on using resins for art/craft on the page I linked to above, and for putting beads into resin also check out the category called Inclusions there.

(Also, if you want more info about anything related to polymer clay, check out my polymer clay encyclopedia site… here is the Table of Contents page; be sure and scroll *all the way down* it:

Resin is an amazing medium, affording near endless possibilities for created new designs. There does, however, seem to be a blatantly large void in the realms of Internet information on the subject. So I wanted to share some of what I have learned in a series of tutorials on the materials and techniques used in resin casting. Ill start with the absolute basics

This first installment is just about materials and supplies. What to use and where to get them.

I recommend starting with EasyCast clear casting epoxy resin. It is great for beginners because it has an easy 1:1 mix ratio. It cures slowly, which is good and bad. Bad because you have to wait a day or more for your piece to fully cure before you can pop it out of the mold. But good very good, if you need time to fiddle around with colors or inclusions. You have at least a good half hour (depending on local temperature) before the resin starts to gel and thicken.

You can find EasyCast at most local craft stores, some hardware store, and of course online. The cheapest online retailers Ive found are Dick Blick and Mister Art.

2. Plastic Mixing/Measuring Cups & Stir Sticks

You will need plastic cups with graduated lines for measuring. Dont use wax coated paper cups, as the wax could flake off into your resin. The best part about plastic cups is that they are reusable without a big cleanup hassle. Just leave your mess of resin in the cup, let it cure, then peel the whole thing out.

Resin Obsession has a nice selection of 1 oz. and 8 oz. mixing cups, as well as little wooden stir sticks.

You can also find wooden stir sticks, or craft sticks at your local craft store or supermarket (Popsicle sticks).

A variety of ready made jewelry molds are available online. Resin Obsession has a fabulous selection of shapes, including letters, numbers and animals.

4. Wax Paper, Gloves, and Paper Towels

Resin is very gooey, sticky, and hard to clean up. You need to protect your work surface and yourself.

Disposable gloves will keep your hand sticky-free. (I just use the cheap vinyl gloves you get in your hardware store for painting.)

Waxed paper makes a great work surface drips wont soak through, and resin wont stick to it, so you can just leave all your mess right there and clean it up later after it has dried and is no longer ooey-gooey.

Keep some paper towels on hand to quickly wipe up drips that land where you dont want them.

This is not necessary, but very useful in removing air bubbles in the resin. Not so critical if you are using glitter or something, but with clear resin the bubbles will show a lot more and you will want to get rid of them.

You can get an Embossing Heat Tool in the rubber stamp aisle of your craft store, or online.

Dont try and cheat by using your hair dryer! A hair dryer blows more air than heat, and will likely blow globs of resin out of your mold. At best it will just make a mess, and at worse ruin your project.

Above are the bare minimum, basic items you will need. But whats the fun in that? You need some color!

There are liquid dyes and pigments made especially for resin. You can find a variety of colors online at Resin Obsession, Dick Blick, and Mister Art. Please note, this is the only type of liquid colorant you can add to resin. Normally with resin Id say, experiment, experiment, experiment! But not with this. Any other liquid (i.e, paint, food coloring) will react with the resin it wont cure and will instead stay a yucky, sticky blob forever.

Now, dry elements, well thats an entirely different matter! Anything dry, and free of oils, is fair game. You can use glitter, mica, artist pastels, pigment powder

Artist pastels offer an endless array of colors. Use a craft knife or razor to gently shave the edges of the pastel.

I especially like Pearl Ex powdered pigments for their subtle shimmer and deep jewel tones.

These items can all be found at your art/craft store. While you are there, peruse the aisles for other fun things to mix in your resin: buttons, candy sprinkles, etc.

Well, now that you have all your materials, youre ready to start casting! The next article in this series will discuss how to mix the resin and how to use your dyes and pigments

Sherri Gallagher on March 7, 2009 9:48 PM said…

I was so excited to find this information. I have been searching the internet for something straight forward. I cant wait to read what you post next.

I use easy cast resin as well but have found that it doesnt cure rock hard. I can squeeze it in my fingers and feel it give. I have tried acrylic paint, oil paint, and even Colores resin pigment. They all turn out soft. Is this normal? I read that easy cast does not get as hard as other resins. Is it better to use dry pigments? Do have any other brands of resin you would suggest that do cure ro

Mcgrath is a very dedicated and experienced woodworker who knows what he is talking about when it comes to woodworking and DIY projects s he has been a woodworker for many many years. Read here

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Colores Doming Resin System

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