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Doming resin for jewelry epoxy resin gluefishing lure gluefishing bait glue

Doming resin for jewelry,epoxy resin glue,fishing lure glue,fishing bait glue  Kingzom UV doming resin is one component, transparent water clear liquid, medium viscosity, excellent flowability, no solvent and no volatiles. It cured at 365nm (main wavelength) with sparkling and crystal-clear smooth surface. After cured, it is clear and rigid. It widely used in the doming / water proof coating for crafts, jewels, labels, key chains, pens, nameplates, nails, metals, glasses, plastics and so on. …

Doming resin for jewelry,epoxy resin glue,fishing lure glue,fishing bait glue

Kingzom UV doming resin is one component, transparent water clear liquid, medium viscosity, excellent flowability, no solvent and no volatiles. It cured at 365nm (main wavelength) with sparkling and crystal-clear smooth surface. After cured, it is clear and rigid. It widely used in the doming / water proof coating for crafts, jewels, labels, key chains, pens, nameplates, nails, metals, glasses, plastics and so on.

2) Solvent-free, all the raw materials are environmental.

5) Fast cured, one component, easy to use.

6) cured with sparkling and crystal-clear smooth surface.

(1) This product belongs to photosensitive adhesive, so it should be store avoid the light.

(2) Put on safeguard procedures before operation, such as: work clothes, glove and eyes protector.

(3) Clean the sealed and bonded products before operation.

(4) Suggest try a small amount before mass production, because different environment, users and application surface will have different influence.

25g/50g/100g/250g/1000g, customized requirements acceptable.

Factory here, if you are resaler,contact usfor best quotation. Customized requirements acceptable.

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UV curing resin for domg

This is my first post. I have a good chemistry background but need a little help with my first project.

I am developing a UV curing resin used for doming.

Im looking at this recipe at the minute and tuning it to be perfect final polymer.

(12%) Aliphatic urethane diacrylate (not sure on the which one but maybe 2-hydroxy-2-methyl-1-phenyl-propan-1-one or 1-hydroxy-cyclohexyl-phenyl-ketone)

(27%) Tris (2-hydroxyethyl) isocyanurate triacrylate

I have picked this one because its non-yellowing and looks to be hard but flexible, with low shrinkage. With the combination of initiators modifying the surface tension. My only concern is that with a dome been several mm thick how long it will take to cure? Will this be solved by adding more initiator? Or would different ones be better?

Basically cost is one the most important factors. Is this a good recipe? Where is the best place to buy these materials? Is there any better formulations?

DaveTraumflugRe: UV curing resin for doming

May 05, 2012 07:12AMRegistered: 8 years ago

May 05, 2012 12:00PMRegistered: 11 years ago

One question: why do you use a complete Urethane system along an acrylic?

The Urtehane Acrylates have the Urethane structure embedded in their molecule, no need for further raction with polyol and isocyanate, right?

As for flexibility and tougness without yellowing, you are right to use Urethane Acrylates. But you do have phenolic groups in there which tend to be the cause of yellowing. Better use completely alyphatic Uretane Acrylates and avoid Phenols altogether.

Also, be sure to chose the most weather and water resistant compounds if you will be using this on the outside.

Another things to add to it is an UV filter, like Hydrochinone. Not adding this in a structure that will be recieveing sunlight on a daily basis means that your window will degrade quite fast.

From the top of my headskulthRe: UV curing resin for doming

May 05, 2012 12:26PMRegistered: 6 years ago

The formular is based is something I found on my literatre search. Just trying to get my head around the Urtehane Acrylates chemistry. If I stick an initator into Aliphatic urethane diacrylate would it form my polymer or does it need the other parts too? I thought the other parts helped to keep the final product hard yet flexible hence why I picked this.

I have a urethane resin which we currently use but its a 2 part mix that needs around 12hours to cure. Hence why Im trying to find a UV curing solution.spotaRe: UV curing resin for doming

May 05, 2012 01:00PMRegistered: 11 years ago

Some have the polyol and isocyanate synthesised into the molecular structure.

Did you check out this page? They offer a clear UV curing Urethane for doming purposes.

[skulthRe: UV curing resin for doming

May 05, 2012 02:42PMRegistered: 6 years ago

Problem is thats a US based company. Need to get it in the UK? Plus these tend to be quite expensive, our current resin is around 12 per Kg. Hoping to get something around that price.

Is there any Urethane Acrylate you could recommend for this purpose?

Sorry to sound so thick, little bit outside my area of experise. I have a master in analytical chemistry. Have some polyer experience but not much so this project is alittle bit of a pain.spotaRe: UV curing resin for doming

May 05, 2012 03:00PMRegistered: 11 years ago

I am an Organic Chemist but originally with no specailization in Polymer Chemistry. Had to learn a wide array of Polymer specific subjects on the way.

You should look into Aliphatic Urethane Acrylates over at the usual suspects (depending on what quantities you need), Sigma Aldritch, Eternal, Sartomer, Polymer Technologies (these are in the UK and are excellent providers, I hear!) I think Kromachem is their ditributor.

I am not an expert in this line of products though, Im more into AcrylicsDentRe: UV curing resin for doming

April 24, 2013 10:56AMRegistered: 5 years ago

Guys, sorry Im newbie for this one. But I have project school to make rubber resin stamp Uv curing type. Would you all to give recipe for that. My Great Thanks. For helps.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/24/2013 10:59AM by Dent.Saulo QuevedoRe: UV curing resin for doming

August 22, 2013 03:06PMRegistered: 4 years ago

I also think this is the best way for the future of RepRap 3D printers.

Just think resins that harden with Ultra violet light or blue light, may be

worked better from powder particles, it will be easier to develop a print nozzle

more efficient way compared to today as it is cured. Think about it.

The grain size may be of varying sizes as may be applicable to each type.

If you have more information about this type of resin, please get back to me so that I can also

apply the use of it on my first 3D printer, called Big Brother Spectrum. Congratulations.

Inovastar Technologies.Saulo QuevedoRe: UV curing resin for doming

August 23, 2013 02:34AMRegistered: 4 years ago

I was giving a general look at this forum and I think it helps. I have no expertise in chemistry, but it looks very interesting. I have the following idea and if someone from the forum can help me with this reasoning, it will be good. It is as follows:

Using a good UV resin or for use with blue light, very reactive immediate application of a compound of powdered ABS, nylon or PLA, and this compound was mixed with this same resin (10%) and this is my primary material for 3D printing, which can bind to industrial plastics mixing some other alloying element that best apply, uniting these plastic resins. The assembly of the 3D part can be made in two or more stages, such as:

Phase 1: Nozzle Light ultravioleta_Azul will sensitize the resin, very reactive and software program can be programmed to only make the application nozzle traverse the paths outside of each fillet piece 3D printing creating a retaining wall on each side the fillet in the way of 3D part that is being processed at the moment.

Phase 2: The same application nozzle will sensitize Plastics ABS, PLA or Nylon in these two containment walls that make up the fillet printing part 3d, with the output beam of light may also be controlled and modified as are the plastic to be used at that moment. The advantage of a 3D printing system two-phase system as described above is that the cost will be much lower as we will use the very reactive UV resin in the minimum amount, only 10% and the final cost is almost equal to the price of commercial industrial plastics . For each layer of printing, all printing nozzle is being used exclusively for mounting the retaining walls of the 3D part of bead for a particular time of application and only after the end of this first phase is that it can begin the second phase will melt the plastic industry between these two retaining walls of the 3D part of the fillet. This way it will give enough time for the retaining walls can be completely cured and firm to receive the plastic material that is applied in the second phase. I think it is a good idea. Think about it. Hopefully contacts.

InovaStarSorry, only registered users may post in this forum.

The Epoxy Test

Trying to decide on the right marine epoxy for your clear coating project is not an easy task. It is especially hard when you have invested money and hundreds of hours in your wooden shell. You cannot afford to make a mistake. My hope is that this test shows how clear coating epoxies behave with or without varnish and most of all, how much care needs to be taken to protect our craft from sun damage.

Wanting to satisfy my own curiosity as well as to find the best epoxy coating for my kayaks, I am currently testing six popular epoxy types side by side to see how they compare over time while exposed to the elements – freezing, rain, sun, heat.

Click for true size version (large file)

All in all, epoxy is an amazing substance. A combination of a liquid epoxy resin and hardener creates a chemically inert plastic that can be cast to any shape, used as a filler, glue, or coating of a wide range of mechanical properties. Most important of all, it is a superb bonding agent for high tensile strength fibers and other materials.

There is a weak spot, however. Despite advances in chemistry, epoxy has one big drawback. When exposed to UV (ultraviolet) radiation such as full sun, sooner or later it discolors, turns very brittle, and eventually disintegrates. Adding pigments helps but this is no consolation if you want a clear coated fiberglass over your mahogany deck on a sailboat or a wooden kayak or canoe. A varnish or other coat with UV absorbing additives is the only solution.

Objectives and questions are listed in a decreasing order of importance.My findings and opinions about these epoxies are on theTest Resultspage.

(varnished or unvarnished) over a long period of time ( at least one year ). Can clear coated canoes and kayaks be exposed without protection over a long period without damage?

If light is completely excluded, will heat and freezing affect the coat? Can kayaks overwinter outside?

does the epoxy wet-out the 4.oz fiberglass? (dense 40×40 weave)

How quickly does the epoxy set and its

Blushing and haze when exposed to humidity and water.

A panel (5 9 x 14) simulating a deck of a wood strip kayak was coated with six types of epoxy formulations. Roughly two fifths of the panel was varnished and three fifths remained raw, unsanded epoxy. Part of the varnished as well as the unvarnished surface was covered with a 5 band of light-proof material to exclude all light. The panel is exposed to 100% unshaded south direction for the largest sun damage. It was taken outside on March 1, 2000.

1/4 wood strip bead & cove core, filled staple holes, sanded and covered by 4oz. fiberglass. Three layers of each epoxy type cover the fabric. Four thick coats of 2015 z*spar varnish cover the varnished section. Varnish coats were sanded bettween coats with 320 grit wet-dry sandpaper.

West System 105 resin and 206 hardener

West System 105 resin and 207 special coating hardener

System Three resin and medium hardener

East System 1032 resin and 834 slow hardener

All epoxies were fresh and used according to instructions. All were applied in the same environment and under the same conditions in a dry, heated workshop at 683F. The samples cured for three weeks before four coats of varnish were applied on four consecutive days (one coat each day). Note that the surface is just coated but not sanded. This is intentional to reveal blushing and the overall quality (clarity) of the free cured epoxy.

The picture below shows the panel after varnishing. There is no large difference in the clarity of the coats at this point (especially the varnished section at the bottom). Click on each section to see the detailed view. This is where the difference in the epoxies really starts to show. Coincidentally, this should represent the color of the new deck. With time the wood will darken. This darkening should be quite noticable when the light blocking plastic is removed during periodic checks.

If you notice any problems with the site (i.e. error links, missing images) please,let me know. Thanks