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Crafty Fridays How to Make Custom Water Bottle Labels

Those are the water bottles for our daughters2nd birthday party. Cute, huh? And we made them ourselves. Oh, how I do lovePinterest!

We designed the labels in Inkscape, afreeopen source vector graphics program thats similar to Illustrator, and printed them on 80lb white cardstock. Then I used a paper cutter to cut the labels apart and clear packing tape to stick them onto the bottle.

And that was it.(Note: If youre interested in the files for these exact water labels, they are available with the other Cat in the Hat Party printables you can findmore information here.)

The upside: Besides being totally cute and completely customizable to match any partys theme? They werent really labor- or time-intensive. By the time I decided to do water bottle labels, the decorations for the rest of the party were done so I easily converted one of the other pieces into a water bottle label.

The downside: If you use your home printer, the ink on the labels will not stand up to condensation. If youre going to ice down your fancy-labeled water bottles, youll either want to have your files printed professionally (or, um, maybe pay a visit to that lonely printer up on the 4th floor that no one ever uses) or use already-designed paper (like scrapbooking stock).

Custom labels or decorative paper, cut to 8.5 inches x 1.75 inches wide (double-check the circumference of your water bottle to make sure 8.5 inches will suffice)

Water bottles, labels removed (I used store-brand 16.9 oz bottles)

Unroll a long strip of tape on your work surface. (I left the tape connected to the roll at this point but you could go ahead and cut it to 9.5 inches if you have a ruler handy.)

Leaving ~1/2-inch of tape at the end, carefully center your label across the 2-inch width of the packing tape and press into place. Lightly rub the back of the label to remove any air bubbles.

Leave ~1/2-inch of tape on each side of the label and then cut the tape.

Place the label onto the bottle I lined up the top of the label with the first groove on the water bottle and smooth. The ends of the label will slightly overlap.

Inspired by:Glorious TreatsviaPinterest.

Thanks for the tutorital! I might use this for my wedding!

Thanks for posting this! Im thinking of having a Tangled party for my daughters 9th birthday and these would be perfect in pink and purple! Maybe with little lanterns And Im glad to see someone actually USES the things found on Pinterest! Mine is more of a collection that I still havent gotten around to trying

What a fun idea for any party! Ill definitely remember this next time I have a party that goes late Everyone enjoys plenty of cocktails but at the end of the night water bottles would be so appreciated Im sure! Thanks Shawnda.

So cute and simple! Ill have to remember this come summer time.

These look so great! I never would have guessed that you used clear tape. When I made custom water bottle lables for a friends shower, I bought sticker paper, which worked really well, but I like your idea too!

This is such a cute idea! Who knew it would be so easy?!

Such a super idea!! Created Hello Kitty labels for daughters birthday party this past Saturday and they were loved by all. Thank you

Are you able to place the water bottles in cooler with ice without damaging the labels?

Awesome! I love this, Ive been trying to get custom ones from Ebay and looking for quotes, but this is a fantastic idea! and soo much cheaper! Thanks!

how do you use the inkscape website?

Just a thoughtusing the tape on both sides will seal in the paper protecting it.

How do you create this document in inkscape?

Yes, how do you make them using inkscape?

I didnt get any screenshots while doing it, but the quick dirty version: you create a rectangle the size that you want your water bottle label, fill it with the color you want, and then you build the individual components (circles, smaller rectangles for stripes, etc) and place them in the rectangle (after you make the first circle/stripe and get it where you want, View Grid, copy and paste-in-place, and then move it with the arrow keys. And you just build from there. Helps if you have some time to mess with Inkscape to learn where things are. It has TONS of features but I only use a very small fraction of them for the projects I do.

Hi, I ran across a few pins on custom water bottle labels on pinterest. I followed your tutorial to make some of my own for a small workshop Im putting together for my 4H Photography kids. This was just the touch to make the event special and at very little cost. thank you for your great idea.

Couldnt you put clear duct tape on the back as well as the front to keep the ink from running?

This site rocks thePearsonifiedSkin forThesis.

Wedding Menu 5 Lunch Ideas to feed 100 people for under $250

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How Can I Make Epoxy Resin Dry Faster?

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How Can I Make Epoxy Resin Dry Faster?

Making resin cure faster IS possible, if you follow certain steps ….

Say you have a big show tomorrow and you waited till today to pour your resin.

Now you need it to cure ASAP so your artwork can be hung on time!

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1.  Increase the temperature in the room where your piece is curing. Cure time is

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parts of your resin to not cure at all and remain sticky indefinitely.

2.  Dont replace the ArtResin hardener with another brand of hardener that

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3.  Dont add any extra agents to the mixture with the intention of promoting a

quicker cure. ArtResin is not designed to accommodate any such additions.

Cure time is one priority of many in the formulation of epoxy resin.  When we formulated ArtResin, we first prioritized exceptional protection forlong-term non-yellowing performance(as well asnon-toxic safetyfor the user!), and in order to achieve this, we had to cut down on the additive that promotes curing (called the accelerator).  Accelerators are typically yellow in color, so too much accelerator makes for a yellow looking product rather than a water-clear one, such as we offer.

Also, the faster resin cures the greater chance it has of yellowing as a side effect of a quick cure time.  Heat is a by-product of the chemical reaction that causes resin to cure, so if it cures too fast (like for example in quick-set tubes of epoxy adhesive), the heat will have turned the epoxy yellow by the time its done curing.

For coating artwork and creative projects, clarity is non-negotiable but a few extra hours of cure time doesnt usually hurt.

ArtResin reaches 95% of its full cure within 24 hours, and 100% of its cure within 72 hours.  After the 24 hour mark, a piece can be moved from its curing position, hung on a wall, and it can have a second coat applied if necessary.  The difference in hardness between the 24 hour and 72 mark is typically only an important factor for artists making coasters, bar tops, or other heavy duty projects which require a less flexible cure.  For coated paintings, drawings, mixed media pieces, and sculpture for example, the marginal difference in hardness from day one to day three is typically negligible.

I am a master doll artist, and I am always looking for improved products to create my re-born dolls. Im looking forward to receiving your guide to Artresin.

What Are The Benefits Of ArtResin?Posted on 04 Jun 16:39

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Its true. ArtResin is different than other epoxy resins on the market, but how? The answer is simple … ArtResin is made for artists, by artists.  It was designed specifically to meet the needs of creative applications by prioritizing 2 key benefits: 1) to offer longterm clarity and superior protection against UV yellowing2) to protect artists health with a resin thats safe…

how to make

Inspiration for kids rooms, baby nurseries, and kids parties

Heres the complete tutorial on how to make a Super Giant Bubbles Kit with bubble recipe,  how-to instructions and free printable labels.

Super giant bubbles are addicting to young and old. Kids would love to receive this as a gift or even help make the kit. I made the simple drawstring sack to hold the bubble kit supplies. The bubble recipe is shown below and I share the**secret**ingredient to help make the giant bubbles last longer.

My teenage daughter enjoyed herself while making these super giant bubbles in our backyard. Like I said, fun for all ages! The colors and shapes produced are mesmerizing!

This is what the bubble wand stick looks like when dipped in bubble solution and opened up to make bubbles. Notice the washer at the bottom of the string this helps weigh down the string and doesnt interfere with the bubbles. Look closely and youll see the bubble solution inside the entire area of the triangle shaped string and another smaller bubble forming.

This post contains affiliate links at no additional cost to you. For further information, please see ourdisclosure policy.

Tutorial how-to make your own Super Giant Bubbles Kit:

1 bowl purchased at the dollar store

1 bottle of Super Giant Bubble Solution (recipe below). I used an empty bubble bottle and poured in my secret recipe and attached the label

cut into two lengths one 8 feet and one 4 feet

instead of using the dowels and screws you could purchase thisinexpensive pole rodand use it instead.

J-LubeThis is what vets use  for obstetrics for pets. I know it sounds weird but you can mix this with water and use thisinsteadof the personal lubricant. The bottle is under $20 and can be used to create hundreds of gallons of bubble solution (so it is quite a bit cheaper than personal lubricant). Mix 1 teaspoon with 12 cups of water and use this in the bubbles recipe with no added personal lubricant. Experiment with how much J-Lube powder to add to the water.

I found this item on Amazon that sells the wands already made and the bubble solution for giant bubbles. No DIY or bubble making recipe. Its already done! The product has received excellent reviews. As of this post date it is under $20 with free shipping for prime members.

I used Dawn (blue) dish washing soap. The recipe is cloudy at first but gets clear after a day or so. Stir occasionally to help dissolve the cornstarch. You can try adding only 1/2 cup instead of 1 cup its worked for me in the past. If  you want your bubbles to have a little more staying power, here is the secret ingredient mix a

(yes, that is correct) with 1 cup of very warm water mix well. After it cooled I added the water/lubricant to the above recipe. The lubricant was purchased at the

This recipe is the exact solution we used to make the giant bubbles including the personal lubricant. The polymer in the personal lubricant is what is needed to create giant bubbles. Regular  bubble solution will not work for giant bubbles. Water that is very hard or alkaline might not work well. Another tip a reader suggested was to warm the 12 cups of water on the stove and add the cornstarch until dissolved. I havent tried this yet but sounds like a good tip. Once the water has cooled then add the lubricant.

High humidity is the perfect time to create giant bubbles (75% humidity or better). Check to see the humidity in your area.

Extreme hot and freezing weather is NOT good for giant bubbles. Cool/cold temperatures such as 45-60 degrees works well.

Keep insects and dirt out of the bubble solution. This is the quickest way to RUIN your bubbles.

You might need to tweak the recipe a bit to fit your conditions. Try adding a touch more personal lubricant or more Dawn.

Experiment with closing and opening the wand. Try closing only one wand handle and see if this helps close your bubbles.

Turn your body and use the wind/inertia to help create bubbles.

My biggest bubbles were made in the early morning or evening.

There are lots of variables when trying to make giant bubbles. If at first you dont succeed, try, try again!!

Print the Super Giant Bubbles Kit label, punch a hole in the corner, thread with heavy duty string and tie onto the cloth sack.

A big thank you to Jenny fromPrintablePartyPacksfor creating the darling bubble labels.

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how in the world did you figure out that lube would make bubbles last longer? thank you for sharing this, because we have some that weve never used ha!

Thats funny! I was at an outdoor fair and there was a guy making giant bubbles. I asked him for his recipe but the only thing I remembered was the ky jelly. I thought he was pulling my leg! Sure enough after googling it its a great addition to the bubble solution. I experimented making the bubble solution with and without the personal lube and it really does make a difference!

WOW that is so fun! Thanks for a great recipe and a fun craft to put together.

I made the bubble solution according to the directions, but could never get the cornstarch to dissolve. Has anyone else had this problem or am I doing something wrong? Love this idea and hope I can get it to work for my grand daughters!

I am having the same problem as others with the cornstarch never dissolving ~ I did mix it in with the just the water first, really well and it seemed dissolved, and then adding the other ingredients. Its been sitting on the counter for 6 hours and I have to keep stirring it but it just all comes back together in a sludge along the bottom.

**ALSO! My solution isnt blowing any bubbles. It is very watery. Please help! I loved this idea & want to make it work!

When I stir the bubble solution the cornstarch is mixed in real well but shortly after it settles to the bottom. I still use the solution with the cornstarch at the bottom. I did reduce the amount to 1/2 of what the recipe calls for and it still works great.

Can you tell me what you might be doing different? What about the Dawn dish washing soap are you using that? I just made another batch 2 days ago and it works great.

Yep, I followed the recipe exactly. For the second batch I did cut down on the cornstarch so theres less sludge at the bottom, but still there. I gently stir it back in and when we go to make the giant bubbles, they pop before they can even leave the strings. And yes, I used Dawn, just like the recipe.

I am using this next weekend & I would really love to get this right.

I was told the more you play with it the silkier it gets making it work better & not pop so easily.

That could be. Just be careful about getting dirt in the solution. There are some tips I shared on the post when the best time to create giant bubbles, etc.

Sue use one of the 12 cups of water to dissolve the corn starch in before mixing it all together.

You can just make it with Dawn and glycerin. No embarrassing purchase needed.

Thank you, Family Circus, for the great advice! Does the corn starch dissolve completely? Im excited to try it tomorrow! Thanks again!

Sue The cornstarch dissolves after a day or two. Stir well! I used the bubble solution while there was still a little cornstarch settled at the bottom of the bowl -didnt seem to hurt the bubbles.

Anonymous Glycerin can also be used instead of the *personal lube*. However, glycerin is much harder to find and it is very expensive $8 for a bottle. The *personal lube* was purchased for $1 at the dollar store much, much cheaper! : )

Sorry, but corn syrup doesnt work. You can use personal lubricant or glycerin it really helps with the lasting power of the bubble.

This looks like so much fun! I will try it out with my grandchildren, I know my granddaughter in particular will love it!

This looks like so much fun! I tried making the bubbles, and I think Im having trouble. I halved the recipe, though I wouldnt think that would cause a problem. I stir it all up and it looks milky blue (I used blue Dawn), but after it sits for a bit the cornstarch settles to the bottom and is VERY thick (similar to taffy) leaving the bright blue liquid on top. Any ideas on what I can do to fix it? Ive stirred and stirred and stirred and it keeps happening!

This worked perfect for me. It provided hours of fun for everyone. One of the bubbles stretched of 30 feet.

Very creative ! Its nice to know that you can do a lot amazing stuff just by purchasing on the right resources which wont always break your wallet.

Here another recipe for GIANT bubbles:

Mineral oil or water based personal lubricant? Im assuming water based?

the liquid solution should be a milky opaque blue when stirred. the cornstarch seems to dissolve after a while but some cornstarch settles at the bottom dont worry about it. mine did and it still worked great.

as far as the personal lubricant i think it was water based. I picked it up at the dollar store.

Just to clarify, is the blue Dawn you used the Concentrated, or the original?

Thanks for the tutorial, Ive been looking for this bubble wand for YEARS!!!

To avoid embarrassment and being the talk of the town I took the bubble recipe in my local dollar Gen. With me lol! Lube bought with no funny looks

Oh my goodness, the secret ingredient is hilarious! Just today I made my first homemade bubbles for my boys, but they were pathetic and popped even quicker than the ones we normally buy at the dollar store. I will be doing this soon! Thank you! (Came to you via pinterest, btw!)

Normally, bubbles burst after a short time because its outside layer evaporates quickly. That is, until manufacturers came up with an innovative solution through the addition of glycerin. Glycerin, or glycerol, is a thick and colorless alcohol which is a byproduct of soap making process. Its ability to dissolve with water makes it ideal for bubble making.

My girlfriend and I had a good giggle over the phone when telling her about the secret ingredient. Her hubby overheard part of the conversation with raised eyebrows! Who would have ever thought??

Tony Im pretty sure it was concentrated.

I used the solution even with the cornstarch at the bottom. It still worked for me. I would occasionally stir it. It seemed to dissolve over time.

Curious if this recipe works for regular bubble blowing as wellhas anyone tried it for smaller bubbles? Can you make a huge batch all at once? Will it last several months?

How long does the mixture last? Do you use lubricant instead of glycerin? I only got 1 big bubble out of about 10 trys

I personally used the mixture a year later and it worked. Ive used both the lubricant and glycerin not at the same time. There are many factors involved did you get any dirt or tiny bugs in your solution? The weather, which way the wind is blowing. etc.. Keep trying and youll become an expert. I did this with a class of 8-10 year old girls and they loved it. Sometimes they got a bubble and sometimes they didnt!

what is dish washing soap? is it soap flakes or is it washing up liquid? Im British please translate

its liquid, similar to hand soap. like what you hand-wash dishes with

Heather thanks for helping out. I LOVE it when readers help answer. Have a great day!

Yes, Kate it is liquid soap. The brand I used is Dawn Dishwashing liquid soap.

Yes, we made smaller bubbles with this. You wouldnt need to add the secret ingredient if you are making smaller bubbles. I think the solution was fine after a long sit. Just make sure the bottle is well-capped.

BTW, best days to have success are high humidity, calm winds.. Exactly like today here in TN This was on our summer bucket list Todays the day!

Thank you so much for the recipe! My coupon group was wondering what to do with all the dish soap and K-Y we got for cheap or for $ makers (if we used a K-Y coupon it would take an extra $1 off our purchase).

Thanks for the great recipe! I think I made it backwards but it still came out great and was ready to use in 15 minutes.

We made these bubbles and had a blast! The powder settled at the bottom and so we kept stirring it and it worked great! You can also replace the 1 cup of Cornstarch with 1 cup of Corn syrup if you are worried about it settling. I love the cute bubble kit!! Thanks for the wonderful post!

Im having the same trouble with the cornstarch settling! I saw it mentioned that it gets clear after a few days, but the instructions say to let sit for only an hour?

We made this and it worked great! But then the next day the bubbles popped immediately after forming. Whats the trick to making the solution last more than one day?

Thank you so much! We made this yesterday, and used it again today. What a hit! I shared on my blog with a link back to you. LOVE your bubble kits!!!

If you use the secret ingredient, and make smaller bubbles the bubbles will last quite a long time! We have made this twice now. The most recent time, I handed smaller bubble wands to my kiddos to use it and I saw a small bubble continuing to float for about 25 30 feet away! We could see them floating on and over the fence of the neighbors yard and continuing to float and float!

I have one complaint about the super bubbles. They dont seem able to come off the super bubble wand. We will create a bubble (a small breeze is very helpful!) but once it gets so big it will just pop! They never seem to float off on their own for a few seconds. It would be nice to know how to make them survive off the wand!

What is the difference between using corn syrup and cornstarch? Im curious! My cornstarch never dissolves completely, no matter how many days I stir it!

I have made this twice now, and each time my cornstarch does not dissolve. Each time we want to pull it out I just stir it up until its scrapped off the bottom and we play with it just fine. Ive never had the cornstarch completely dissolve.

hi Kate, im from Glasgow ive heard fairy antibacterial is the closes match to Dawn

I foundation your recipe on pinterest, but the link was not working. I pinned it again form here and have about 3000 repins! Thanks for posting!

Could you please tell me where i can buy Dawn Dishwashing liquid in Sydney? i dont seem to be able to find it in any of my local supermarkets.

I am in Perth, and cant find dawn here either. I have heard that morning fresh original is the best, but I have used Palmolive detergent with success. Any thick concentrated detergent should work. Hope that helps.

So I love this idea! Im in the process of making several of these as Christmas gifts. Is the corn starch supposed to dissolve?? In the batch Ive made, it settles to the bottom after sitting for a while.

I made this today for my son, it was a bit hit, worked perfectly! Just a little tip to save some moneyI went to JoAnns Fabric store and bought 4 yards (8 feet) of 100% cotton piping at $1.99 per yard ($8 total). Then, I had another errand to run at Walmart and came across a 100 foot roll of 100% cotton clothesline (looked just like the piping I bought) for just under $5. The clothesline was located with the screws, fasteners, and picture hangers.

Thanks, Grace! SO glad this was a hit!! Thanks for the tips on the piping.

I followed your wand design. But for some reason when making the bubbles I used a different recipe. I used a whole bottle of clear dawn, glycerin and 12 cups of water. The bubbles didnt work, so I added the ingredients you used to it. No I get bubbles but they wont come off the wand without bursting. Should I try adding more water to dilute the dawn? Also, I used distilled water. Can I add tap water?

Im not sure what is happening to your bubbles. Make sure to follow the recipe exactly. Humid mornings and evenings are best for bubbles. The solution might need to sit for a bit. I wish I could help you more

Anyone wanna help me problem solve? I can get the bubble started then it pops! More water? More lube? What do you think??

Check the weather for humidity. If there is a morning or evening that has higher humidity that will certainly help. Do not do this on aspahlt or cement the heat can evaporate the water quickly. Did you give the solution a little bit of time to set up? Little bugs and dirt can also affect the popping quickly. I would also guess that maybe a little more lubricant might help. Good luck

Try using some of the water, boiling, to make a smooth paste with the cornflour. I think the high temp helps the cornflour to release its cellulose? The best UK equivalent to Dawn is Fairy Platinum. Make loads of bubbles by using netting they go for ever.

Thank you, Cyndi! Any kid will love receiving this as a gift. I enjoy playing with it too!

Lol!!! Personal lubricant, I have to try this. Thanks for the share

I know I said the same thing. It really does work. Have fun creating the bubbles!

Can I use this recipe to make small bubbles to? The kind you put in a little bottle with a wand, I would love to know. Thanks in advance!

I believe so. You will need to experiment with the solution. Im pretty sure you can its been a while since Ive done the small bubbles.

Hi, Im Toni! Welcome to my blog Design Dazzle! I love being a designer, DIYer, decorator, traveler, stylist, crafter, party planner, food and treat maker, holiday lover, and memory maker! Design Dazzle encompasses ideas and inspiration for lifes celebrations, home projects, DIY and crafts, holiday fun (especially Christmas), travel and much more!READ MORE

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Jasmin Studio Crafts How to Make a Glass Tile Pendant (using a tray

How to Make a Glass Tile Pendant (using a tray)

I have to say that using trays is my favourite way to make glass tile pendants – the metal bases give them a very finished look. I am using here a silver plated tray and a copper plated one. There is a slight difference in the way you use the two – more on that a bit later.

First of all here is a small shopping list of items you will need:

Images (laser prints or professionally printed images on thick smooth paper)

Glass shapes and metal trays of the same size

Craft punch (optional but makes life so much easier!)

Glaze – Diamond Glaze, Glossy Accents or DG3 are all fab

First, you need to choose your images – the fun part. The ones I use here are readymade 1 inch collage sheets byPiddixPrintablesandDigitalya. I use a laser printer on thick smooth paper. I find cardstock is too thick for my purposes and can sometimes be textured and porous, and letter paper is far too thin, so something in between is ideal, so long as it has absolutely no texture and is completely smooth. I use a very smooth paper from our printing shop that is upwards of 200 or 250gsm. Some glossy coatings may run once you apply the glaze, so do not use photo paper, try instead to find a plain paper with a slight sheen but without a coating. We can only recommend laser prints for this craft – inkjet inks can often run, sometimes after several days of your pendant looking beautiful it will suddenly look all wrong. Best not to risk it and start with a good print.

Cut your images to size. I use a cutter – makes life sooo much easier. The ones that have a pull-away out bottom cover that you can see through are ideal, but if you dont have a cutter just make a template out of card, or trace around your glass shapes with a pencil and cut around that.

Make sure that the images you will be using are thoroughly sealed with several coats of ModPodge, MicroGlaze or your favourite choice or sealant and completely dry. Depending on the inks on your prints, you may be able to skip this step, you may have to experiment. You will probably find that the laser prints and professional prints (say if you use wrapping or scrapbooking papers) will not need as much sealing as inkjet prints. Inkjet prints will need several layers of sealant before they will be usable. Some inks will run already when trying to seal them! If so, dont despair, switch to laser prints on good paper and see the difference.

Remember you will need to seal the back, the front and the sides! I find it useful to lay my cut outs on a piece of plastic, here I use one of my grip-seal bags which are flexible and sturdy enough for this.

Repeat several times for inkjet inks, or a couple for laserjet inks. Wait until each layer is dry. This could be a day or so …each! You have to ensure each step is completely dry, otherwise you could have problems later on – cant emphasise this enough!

Not quite ready – wait a bit longer!

Apply a drop of Diamond Glaze over the centre of the sealed image. Dont worry too much about bubbles at this stage.

Press the glass into the wet glaze. Pressing hard will make the bubbles pop out at the edge. You can use a heavy object to press down onto the glass whilst it is drying.

It is normal for the piece to look a bit cloudy at first – Diamond Glaze is not clear when wet. However it will still look cloudy after a day or so if you have used too much Diamond Glaze so look out for that – it means the edges have dried before the centre could do the same. If you keep the piece in a warm room or even on a heater on a cool setting, it should dry overnight – but please wait for a day or two before using it in jewellery. It helps if you keep a heavy book over the top of your piece throughout the drying time to ensure the paper and glass stick consistently.

Over the following days, inspect your pieces and if they are completely dry, you can now glue them into your tray. If you have chosen to use any metal trays that are copper, brass or bronze or any antique/vintage platings you will need to coat your tray with a layer of ModPodge as Diamond Glaze has a tendency to react with these platings and turn blue which will give a distinct blue hue to your images.

Apply a drop of glue to the back of the pendant blank – I have used both Diamond Glaze and e6000 successfully here – the key is to ensure your image is well sealed and most glues that are suitable to stick paper to metal should be fine. If you use Diamond Glaze you need to watch that it doesnt wet the image too much, so use a drop or two and ensure the rest is completely dry before you apply it.

Once you press the glass into the tray you may get a bit oozing out of the sides, so wipe that away with a paper towel and once dry, wipe the glass with a damp cloth to remove any bits of dried Diamond Glaze (which is water soluble even when dry, so whilst this is handy as it will wipe away from the glass, it also means your work will be affected if the piece gets wet, so always advise your wearers not to wet the pieces).

I have used e6000 successfully to glue the glass into the pendant tray, with no effect to the image. Neither will you get any excess out of the sides if you use just enough. However one downside of using the e6000 is that it is very permanent so if you make a mistake you will not be able to re-do the piece, unlike with Diamond Glaze which can be resoaked so that you can start again.

As E6000 is stronger than Diamond Glaze, there is always a risk that it might pull the image away from the glass at points – the trick here is to apply a tiny line of E6000around the edge of the tray instead of a blob in the middle. But generally if your paper is thick enough, and your work has been dry for some days, you dont need to be too careful.

When it has all dried, inspect your masterpieces….

And because you will quite possibly have caught the bug, make more!

(All images used in pendants & ring can be bought atPiddixPrintablesandDigitalya.)

love it! Will definitely have to try this soon!

Hi Jasmin thanks for all your help via e-bay!

this tutorial is great Im gunna keep referring back to it tonight when Im making my pendants

Cant wait to see what else you add on here 🙂

I used this method to make some pendants and the pendants dried with a wet look to them?? Not sure why. Since then Ive tried the same method but leaving a heavy book on top while they dry. Im still not having the best results. Any advice for me?

Hi rcronin, sorry you are having problems – any chance you could send some pics to me at ? Ill be able to advise better then. You may need to wait longer in between glueing the tray to the image and then to the glass, or it may simply be that you could use less glue. Is your paper completely smooth and well sealed? Another thing you can try is adding the glass to the image first, and then a day or so afterwards you can glue it (with very little DG) to the tray. Hope this helps! Jasmin

Thanks for the awesome post! I just made some cabochon magnets last night but the E6000 is making my image look wet under the glass and Im wondering if it will get more clear as time passes. Any advice regarding the glue? I tried 1st with 1 punches from a magazine and then tried again with some card stock and the paper has darkened under the E6000 : (

Saw your response to rcronin, I will wait longer between the gluing and see if that helps. : )

Hi Angela – yes, first make sure that your glass tile & paper is as dry as poss. Thick smooth paper is good, cardstock can be somewhat porous, so make sure it is well sealed – and you only need a little bit of glue so try not to use too much! 🙂

Hi, thanks for the great tutorial! I havent put your teachings to use yet, as Im just researching best methods at this point… I just have one question about the stage where you seal the front, back and sides of the images. I have a product called Decou-page by Americana which states that it is a sealer-glue-finish. It says it dries clear. Wondering if youve heard of or have tried this product because I hope it will work as well as Mod Podge? When you place your images on the plastic sheet to dry, does the side thats laying against the plastic tend to dry well? Or do you turn the images over after the fronts have dried? How do you ensure both sides and all edges of the images are completely dry? Thanks so much!! Cant wait to start making these!

Hi Jenn, yes you do need to seal all sides separately. I peel the graphics off the plastic to seal the other side and the edges. There will probably be lots of dried up glue around it that you will need to pull off or cut around, but it comes off easily. I have all the images sealed completely (and then tidied up back into a circle shape) before gluing them into any trays. Your decoupage glue sounds fine! Im sure it will work, however, sometimes little nuances in the chemical make up of a glue might mean you get a slightly different reaction, so I cant say with absolute certainty, but I am pretty sure it would work! Have fun!!

Thank you Jasmin Studio – I appreciate your response!

I followed these instructions exactly. For a few days I had a bunch of wonderful necklaces, but when I checked them this morning, half of them were ruined. It looks like the ink has run, even though they were professionally printed, and completely sealed. Any idea why this would happen? Im really gutted.

Hi Nooka, sorry it didnt work for you. It sounds to me like they might have been assembled before each component had dried completely or too much glue was used inside the pendant so it re-wet the image. Did you also seal the back of the images? If you want to email me more details Ill be happy to pinpoint what the issue could be. In the meantime, pop the necklaces in a bowl full of water and in a day you should be able to prise the glass away, clean the image off the glass and start again. Regards, Jasmin

Ive got 30mm trays and cant find a 30mm craft punch anywhere. Do they exist!? Thanks : )

Hello CBMT, Im afraid I havent come across a 30mm punch yet, but if I do, I will post about it here!

Hello, I have done this glass pendant several times. It look fine the first 2 days. But after 3 days, I have bunch moisture, like water drops inside my glass pendant. What did I do wrong? I am so discourage. Diamond glaze ruined so many of my pendants with water inside the glass tile. Help.

Hello, I tried this method of making my pendants, but I also find them ruined after 2 days. Then I figured that my glue is water based and I use inkjet to print my image! So I use e6000 to attach the glass to my graphic and it looks fine. My main concern is the toxicity since I use e6000 for just about all parts of the process making the pendant. Any thoughts? Thanks!

Hello Abellagifts – I am sorry, I had replied to your note, but my post has vanished!

Dont be discouraged, first of all, soak your pieces in warm soapy water and you will be able to start again. I recommend using really good thick laser-printed paper, very little glue, and if you are still having trouble, try drying your pieces on a hard surface with a weight on top. It sounds like this may be a case of too much Diamond Glaze being used which dries around the edges and not in the middle, or assembling the items without letting them dry first.

It might help to wait a while for each step to dry before assembling – lots of people pop the image/glass combo into the trays right after gluing them together, and that will almost always not dry correctly – give it a couple of days to make super-sure.

Its always worth experimenting before using your good pictures, so try with some scrapbooking paper first so that you have the reassurance that you have the process down to a T.

Hello ARTshell, ohhh I had never heard of E6000 being used to stick glass to paper – I will have to try this! I would imagine that even if it dries clear however, it might become a little expensive if you make lots of jewellery, as you get quite a bit less for your money than with Diamond Glaze. I am glad you found a method that worked well for you however, because you are quite right, Diamond Glaze can be a bit tricky sometimes.

In terms of your question regarding the toxicity of E6000, absolutely, in its active state it is a nasty thing, so always work in very well ventilated areas and do not allow it to come into contact with skin. I believe it is the case with glues that once dry, they become inactive, however I have passed your question to the manufacturer for a more accurate reply and will post it here once I receive it. In the meantime you can consult the MSDS here:

Hi Im a new follower of yours. I love this idea 🙂 I found your blog when trying to find out how to make them using my images. Youve been so much help so far thank you!

Ive got as far down the shopping list as Diamond Glaze, got some of that, but Im stuck on ModPodge. Do I need to get Glossy or Matte? Im confused about this and dont want to waste money on the wrong one. Which type of ModPodge did you use?

Hi Cerian and welcome! Either Glossy or Matte ModPodge will work for this – they both look clear under the glaze and you cant really tell the difference between the two. However ModPodge is a very versatile product so if you were thinking of using it for anything else (such as decoupage for instance) then you might prefer one over the other. You can find out more about ModPodge and what you can do with it here:

I want to use photographs to make some pendants. What paper should I use? I usually get my photos printed at shutterfly.cm or the local pharmacy, will those places be ok? Do you have a link to where you buy your paper?

Lesley, I make portrait pendants (a ton) using my own prints and I get the Canon matte photo paper from Staples and print with the high quality option on my printer. When youre getting your image ready, just open a Word document, put your picture on and then resize to what you need. Its a pain trying to get just the right size for your pendant blank or tile if you are not printing them yourself.

Thanks Jill! Are you using an inkjet printer? I have a canon printer but think I only have glossy paper so I will head to staples tomorrow to get matte paper. I actually wuld prefer to print from home anyway b/c when I want to work on a project I dont like to wait 🙂 Do you do anything special like the microglaze to protect the photo.

I only asked b/c I tried these pendants once before and had not so great results. Everything I find online is so mixed.

Hi Lesley, sorry I missed your post! I would recommend using a laser printer over inkjet as inkjet inks have a tendency to run and need careful sealing with something like ModPodge. You can take your resized images to your local printing shop and ask for them to be printed by laser printer on the thickest smooth paper they have. Photo papers vary hugely in how they behave with this craft so as a rule I dont generally recommend using them – the matte papers can be ok, but glossy papers in particular react with the glaze and can make your images blur.

Generally with good thick paper and a good laser print, you can get away with little or no sealing, which earns you time – however, you will soon find your own favourite materials and methods, as Jill has found, as you seek a good balance between using your own equipment and materials or professional ones.

Thanks so much. I think I am going to try both methods as you suggest since they are both different than when I tried before and see what works best. I believe the first time I did these I used an ink jet printer on glossy paper, and tried triple thick glaze and clear nail polish to seal and neither worked very well.

I also try to maken glase tile pendants but I have a problem with airbubbels.

Instead of diamond glaze I use mod podge dimensional glaze could this be the problem.

Initially the pendant looks nice but after 3 days I get airbubbles everywhere.

I print all of my images on card stock from my inkjet printer. I let dry for 1 day, then I take it outside & spray BOTH SIDES of the cardstock with a clear sealer (I have used several clear spray sealers & they have all worked equally well…currently I am using Valspar Clear Satin Sealer from Lowes). I spray twice to ensure a complete seal. I let the cardstock dry outside…sometimes up to couple of hours. The cardtock sheets try to blow away…so be careful with that, too!

Then I cut the images out. I place a few drops of diamond glaze onto the image & press the glass down onto the image. I am careful to center the glass onto the image just right. Then I push down….HARD. Then while still pressing down I take a toothpick & ensure that all larger bubbles are away from the edge of the glass & image to ensure a good seal. Then just hold the glass down. If you stop pressing down too soon all the bubbles you pressed out will be sucked right back under the glass. So press down hard for about 30 seconds (be careful not to shift the glass around while pressing down). Then I set something with weight onto the glass to allow it to continue to dry. Since I also sprayed the back side of the cardstock with the sealer the e6000 glue does not cause a problem by soaking through the image.

Hello Eve, hello Lindsey, and welcome!

Im sorry you are having problems, Eve. ModPodge Dimensional Glaze is not a product that is easily available in the UK, so Im afraid I have never tried it. However it does sound to me that Lindsey has the answer – if your paper is well sealed, bubbles will not seep through from behind the paper, plus a heavy weight will ensure the paper and the glass adhere at every possible point on the surface. Try it and see how you get on! Thank you Lindsey! I have heard of lots of people using clear sealer sprays successfully, Im glad to learn it works well on inkjet prints too!

Ive been having the same problems with shiny spots/air bubbles after I glue them into the trays (usually 2 days later). Ive been putting the E6000 in the centre and spreading it out. Ive tried Glossy Accents, Sun & Moon glaze and Diamond Glaze, all with the same outcome. Will try letting them dry longer before putting them in trays (I usually wait 12-24hrs).

Im doing pendants with custom silhouettes for a while, using diamond glaze.

I print my images on a professional photographer -kodak glossy paper.

I made a lot for xtmas gifts, but recently I had a new problem.

After 2 days…my black silhouette turns red. Anyone had the same problem?

Im using the same material/pendants, glue, glass….

Hi Ana, try not using photo paper, and switch to laser printed smooth thick paper instead of 250gsm. Also, ensure you seal your images thoroughly – they should feel quite smooth and plastic-y and that will ensure the glaze does not come into contact with the ink.

Hi Darkhalf – are you using particularly porous paper? if so, it will need several coats of sealant. Also, use only a little E6000, and if you find it pulls the paper from the glass, use a few tiny dots applied with a toothpick around the edge of the tray. Hopefully that will help.

Have you had trouble with lines in your pendants when doing this? I seem to keep getting lines that seem to be the brush strokes from sealing my images with mod podge.

I am having the same issues and I am using a sponge applicator.

Thanks for sharing your amazing blog. I finished this right now and thinking that it is the perfect blog I was looking for . Never stop writing, and keep up such an informative blogs. Best wishes for you.

Hi. I used to glue my glass cabs into the pendant settings using Mod Podge. Ive never had a problem with this but lately Ive worried that it isnt strong enough. So Ive switched to E6000 glue but Ive had mixed results. Some of my pieces turn out fine but others develop a brown staining on the image and/or bubbles. I seal my images thoroughly and usually wait 24 hours after attaching the glass cab to the image with DG. From reading the above I can only assume Im using too much E6000 and/or not leaving my cabs to dry for long enough. So I will try again.

Hi Louisa…I have the same problem with E60000 glue 🙁 bubbles or staining. And I seal my images too

its frustrating and annoying …

and its like … the more I do, the more problems I see 🙁

Hi both – I think the problem may lie with the paper not being thick enough, or perhaps applying too much e6000. It really only needs a thin line along the corners – try applying it with a toothpick – but firstly make sure that the paper you use is as thick as possible, or if that cant be, then ensure you seal it several times over so it resembles a hard piece of plastic. Incidentally, for anyone wondering, E6000 is not suitable for gluing a cab to an image, just for gluing an insert to the tray!

Hi! I am getting flecks in the picture after applying the cab to the image. Suggestions?

I get the shiny spots under the glass as well. I have sealed the paper with Diamond Glaze, Modpodge and nothing works. Its not on every one but on wayyy to many. Getting images printed at OfficeDepot on white matte stock paper. Pretty tired of having to redo. Any help is appreciated.

Yay! I had no idea that I could soak these in water (I used warm water for quicker results) and redo them! The first three I made turned blue b/c I used too much Diamond Glaze, and had I known that I could take them apart, Id have remade them. I was making a special custom pendant for someone, and it mustve been too humid, b/c the image pulled away from the glass around the edges. I also need to remember to cut the image out before I glue it to the cabochon. This is,by far, the best tutorial Ive read, and I thought Id read them all! 🙂

My issue is that the piece looks cloudy after a few days. Fine when it goes into the tray, but then after a day or two, its like there is contact with the ink but I have well-sealed it. Confused and frustrated.

This is the most helpful tutorial Ive found, I made a few pendants before I read this and experienced many of the problems (image turning blue and bubbles) I have just one question, can you seal the tray with anything other than mod podge? (such as PVA glue etc)

I had to spray mine with Krylon preserve it before I used the glue. It needs to dry for 24 hours. This is the only way mine would not run. It takes a good 4 to five days for them to successfully dry without smearing. I was able to make a couple in 2 days with the spray. I had to order it.

Excellent tutorial, thank you so much Jasmin. I guess only here I am going to get more help. My problem is: after I glue cabochon into the tray then after 1 or 2 days, I get silvery streaks and shadow like patches on the image. I am getting mad. I do everything like coating the image with water based napkin glue on both sides of the image. I let it dry for 2 to 3 days. please heeeelppppppppp! thank you so much again.

Hello and welcome! The silvery streaks are an annoying problem – I agree! The best way we have found to prevent them is to apply a heavy weight to the cabochons whilst they are drying, and later, when you set them into a tray, just run a thin line of strong glue around the outside edges of the tray, not a drop in the middle. We suspect that the silvery streaks are to do with the glaze separating from the glass, so it helps if you make sure that you have a strong and even bond in the first place, and that the second glue (generally being stronger than the first) doesnt pull the paper away from the glass. If the problem continues after this, I might look at changing from the napkin glue to ModPodge which gives a really good seal. Also, which glaze do you use? we love Diamond Glaze and Glossy Accents and have made some lovely pieces with silicone glue. Oh and one final thing, try to make sure the back of the cab, the surface that the glaze will stick to, is always really clean (for example hand lotions will easily ruin a good effort!)

I am having a heck of a time. Ive been making image pendants from my painting for several years, using an epson printer with claria inks. No problems. I got a new printer a month ago. Also an epson with claria inks. Ive changed nothing else. Same box of paper. Same bottle of diamond glaze. Same everything. But now Im getting sprays of air bubbles on most of them. Ive tried sealing the prints with modpodge, beacon fast finish decoupage, and acrylic matte varnish. Ive tried less glaze, more glaze, more pressure, less pressure, holding the glass down longer, not as long, firmer. Everything I can think of.

I got so desperate, I tried laser prints but I have other problems there. If I seal with modpodge or acrylic varnish, I get bubbles. If I dont, no bubbles but the diamond glaze isnt adhering right–the print can be pulled away from the glass without too much effort.

Hi Laura, sorry to hear of your problems with this – I cant think what it could be other than perhaps some changes on the manufacturing side of either your printer or the inks… You say you have changed nothing other than the printer? Im suprised that you get bubbles when using ModPodge – how thick is the paper you use? Bubbles need to find a way in through the paper in order to settle under the glass, so perhaps it needs a few more coats of ModPodge. We find three coats on all sides works for us on most types of prints, but if we use a laser printer, we often get away with not sealing at all. The print pulling away can often be because either the surface didnt make full contact when drying or a stronger glue has been used behind the paper to adhere to a tray – if that is the case, you could try just using a tiny bead of glue around the edge of the tray, not right in the middle. Do let us know if this helps!

I just discovered your website and I love it! I wish I had found you years ago. Up until now Ive been making my own glass tile pendants for myself and friends like this: 1. use Mod Podge to glue the image to the bezel; 2. Seal the image with more Mod Podge; 3. when dry glue the glass to the pendant twith E6000. Ive had a few throwaways (mostly due to ink running) but good results about 95% of the time that way, and I made my first pendant three years ago. Now Ive been approached by a local band Im quite fond of with an offer to make pendants with their logo. And all of a sudden Im having air bubble disasters! So Ive got some images in production now that Ive prepared following your instructions. Tonight Im going to glue them to round glass cabs with Diamond Glaze. I hope they turn out well! Thank you so much for your helpful tips and suggestions as to what can go wrong and how to alleviate/fix problems. I think it was sheer dumb luck that Ive gotten OK results for so many years up until now, but then this is the first time Im going to be (hopefully) paid for my work.

Thanks for the tips, I make these too! I will try sealing my photos first with the glaze, I get that silvery crazing in mine sometimes!

Hi Heather, we find the silvery shadows are minimised when we apply a heavy weight to the cabs during the whole time that they are drying. Also, best to go easy on any glue you use behind them (say to glue into a bezel) – this is because sometimes this glue will be stronger than the glaze and can make it crack and separate the image from the glass. Hope this helps! 🙂

I have been making pendants using my photography, and I get the images printed on matte paper at photobox. I have been using modpodge to seal front and back of the image, and diamond glaze to attach the image to the cabochon. Its taken me a while to learn how to rid the air bubbles, but I seem to have found a way way that works for me. I move the glass around in a circle to help move air bubbles to the side an

How to Make Real Flower Resin Jewelry

Making real dandelion and flower resin jewelry is not technically difficult. But as they say, one learns by doing. I was inspired to try by Shireen Nadir (), a Canadian resin jewelry artistI featured beforeIn the previous tutorial, I experimented with using silica gel – crystal cat litter – to dry dandelion clocks and flowers. The next stage is embedding the dandelion and flowers in resin and finally turning them into jewelry.

I usedLittle Windows resin mixwhich I had received for review. Its a great resin but note that the proportion is different from other brands. It is 2 parts of A to 1 part of B. Dont like squinting and trying to see the markings of the plastic cup? Use small scales and measure out the parts by weight. For example, I used 10 g of A and 5 g of B. I prefer to make up small batches as it is easier to anticipate needs and not waste any resin.

I also followed their instructions, stirring carefully for about 2.5 minutes until I dont see any swirls within the mixture. Try not to create bubbles. Leaving the mix under a lamp for 5 minutes afterwards really helps. Any unavoidable bubbles rise to surface and can be moved to the side of the cup be popped.

If you do a lot of resin work, make sure to work in a ventilated environment or at the very least have a fan blowing across the work area. I dont usually do so but you can also wear gloves (use nitrile ones).

I also usedLittle Windows round cabochon moldwhich came with the resin I received. It has multiple sizes and replicates of sizes which are ideal for jewelry making. These yield half spheres.

Once the resin has been mixed and is ready for use, fill the mold about 2/3 up. For the dandelion clock, I used the second largest size. Gently and slowly push the clock into the resin until fully submerged. Smaller flowers can be positioned using the stir stick or even a toothpick. The latter is good for popping bubbles if there are any obvious ones.

Always let resin cure under cover. There is nothing more frustrating than dust! You can certainly touch the resin after 12 hours without leaving fingerprints. But I would leave it a full 24 hours.

Another tip once you are done. Clean out resin cups and stirrers with dry paper towels and they will be good to go next time.

The real flower resin cabochons look like they have been encased in glass. There were tiny bubbles here and there but I thought they added to the pieces!

I had left part of the dandelion clock stem as a handle. Next time I will not so in order to save effort. This time I had to first trim off as much of the organic material as possible.

I then had to sand down the remains using 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. This was done underwater to avoid breathing in the dust. This left a frosted look to the back of the dandelion cabochon. I didnt bother returning to the clear glass look – this required a dremel with a polishing wheel. (Update : reader Linda says another application of clear resin or even nail polish will also do the trick!)

If you look closely, the resin cabochon are concave when set. I think adding just a bit more resin to level out the back is worth the effort because it avoids the huge bubble issue as you will see further down. This means a second round of resin making and pouring. See what I mean about multi-stage and patience?

I usually like to add some color to the bottom of the metal bezels I use. When the resin mix is almost gone, I colored it with some Jacquard Pearlex powder (see this post on how to color resin).

Before pouring a small amount of colored resin into the bottom of the bezel, make sure it is level. You can always lay completely flat bezels on a sheet of waxed paper to protect the surface. But if the bail of a pendant makes the bezel uneven, put it on a box and let the bail part protrude as shown below.

I am using the wonderfulsilicon doming trayI bought from Little Windows – any accidental spills can be popped out after the resin cures.

The lovely earring bezels I bought fromNunn Designwere trickier to lay flat. So I got two stacks of empty CD cases and positioned the earring so the bezel is flat. As before cover and cure.

Once the colored resin in the bezels are cured, its time to add the flower resin cabochons. Resin is a wonderful glue in itself. So prepare another batch of plain resin and add some to the bezels which should be flat positioned. I like to use the stirrer to add drops of resin. Carefully place the resin cabochons onto the fresh resin. Let it cure.

As the resin cabochons were concave at the back, the clear resin glue was not sufficient to fill this gap. The lower earring bezel trapped a very large bubble. The other one wasnt too bad. These were tiny white 4 petal clematis flowers.

I trimmed the salvageable one by trimming the ear wire and making a bail with the rest!

On one hand the glass like cabochons were great. On the other the reflections were hard to avoid in photography!

This pair of earring drops were not filled with any resin color. With smaller pieces, the trapped bubbles were more central and adds to the design.

This Nunn design earring pair had a gold colored resin background.

Both earrings above were made with the tiny flowers of my favorite perennial, the well behaved coral bells (Heuchera). They dried easily.

The New England Asters petals shriveled up while drying leaving behind a very interesting fuzzy core.

The yellow potentilla flowers dried more or less okay. I debated on whether to seal them with a few layers of acrylic spray before embedding in resin but didnt. So you can see darker areas in the petals where they had become translucent. But the white clematis and coral bell flowers were not affected. To seal or not to seal will depend on the flowers. Id say to seal as a precaution with bigger petaled flowers.

I still liked the cool flowers in the cabochons above so went ahead and mounted them on Nunn Design rings.

As I did not have large enough bezels for the dandelion clock resin cabochons, I used wire wrapping instead. The wire net bezel tutorial will be out tomorrow.

I do receive a small fee for any products purchased through affiliate links.This goes towards the support of this blog and to provide resource information to readers.The opinions expressed are solely my own. They would be the same whether or not I receive any compensation.

All final photos were taken with my iPhone 5, camera+ app and with the Modahaus TS400 light studio. I used the native camera app for the outdoor shoot. The tutorial pictures were accomplished in my windowless basement studio with the aid of 2 100Wdaylight CFL lamps.

For more information on myhow to photograph jewelrywebinar,click here.

How to Make a Gold Leaf Resin Bangle Tutorial

How to Make Butterfly Resin Earrings

Exquisite Wire and Resin Kanzashi Flower Hair Jewelry

Jewelry Making TipsJewelry Business Tips

You could say Pearl was born to be a jewelry designer with a name like that! She is the author of The Beading Gems Journal now simply calledThe Beading Gem, a popular jewelry making, inspirational and how-to website.Subscribefor your daily dose of tips and tutorials and more

What that is a lot of work but the results turned out beautifully. I especially love that Dandelion! I would love to try this someday – wonder if I have the patience 🙂

It is time consuming overall and it requires planning in order to be efficient. But as you say, the results are worth it!

Incredible tutorial Pearl. And Why? Because you showed us your oopsies as well and told us what to do about them. I appreciate that!

I think your results were gorgeous! I particularly liked the coloured resin in the bottom to show off the flowers.

AND – something else I noticed! NO BALL CHAIN!!

This set of tutorials was probably the most time consuming I have ever done. Still I learned a great deal from the experiment and could share.

Everyone should also know why dried flower jewelry artisans charge what they charge for their work. It takes time, planning and allowances for the failures.

LOL! I still have ball chain and may yet use them another time!

Those are beautiful and unique, Pearl. Im going to have to try that some day. There are so many different flowers to use.

I hope you do! I can see how dried flower resin jewelry focals can look wonderful teamed up with gemstones like yours!

The dandelion clock wire bezel is simply gorgeous. I am looking forward to the tutorial. I have a couple of tips for gluing cabs in bezels with resin. Use a flat square brush to apply a coat of resin to the bezel and glue the cab to it- no smudges or bubbles. For concave cabs, apply resin only on the edges that come in contact with the bezel. for convex objects pour resin into a mound and set object in it (its very unpredictable as you need to apply pressure to the object for 3-6 hours or it will tip off)

Interesting comments, Divya. Note that in most of the bezels, I am not attaching directly to the bezel but onto a layer of colored resin. Either way, if I apply only at the edges of the concave cabs, there is not enough contact surface area to ensure the cab will stay on. But yes, convex objects (at the bottom at least) will be as with any embed resin project.

Pearl, to get a shiny surface after sanding, just paint a thin layer of resin where you sanded. Or, if you arent going to sell it, and dont feel like mixing up more resin (since there is a minimum amount you must mix for it to set), use clear nail polish. Works like a charm.

Excellent tip, Linda. I will update the post with it. I thought that might be the case but I was avoiding having to make up another batch of resin!

Hi Pearl, oh my goodness thank you for the tutorial. Ive always wanted to try resin, perhaps some day. I do have one question. When you were drying the dandelion clock, how did you get it to stay together without losing any seeds? I really love the dandelion clock and the New England aster! I would love to try that with a bachelor button too! Again, thanks for sharing. Love ya Patricia B

I picked clocks which were still fresh ie not about to easily lose their seeds. I just gently handled them. No problem. Oooh, bachelor buttons is an excellent idea! I will have to try that too next year.

How did you get the dandelion clocks to not have a matted look when you put them in the resin? Im thinking about doing a few individual seeds for wish pendants, but dont want them to turn out looking like a wet, bedraggled seed. Yours seem to look very nice and fluffy just as they were in the grass.

The clocks are dry and the trick is to put it into the resin very,very gently. Try it and you will see.

Fantastic Thankyou I love all your work

How did you get the dandelion to not stick together when putting it in the resin?

Nothing. It doesnt stick together as this is resin not water

Hi Pearl! I love your flower resin jewelry and this is a great tutorial too! I just had to share it on Facebook!

Do the colors of the flowers fade over time? Beautiful work!

Yes they do with time but how fast will depend on how much sun they are exposed to.

l have a clover resin piece of over 40 years, and the colour is still the beautiful pink and white that l purchased. Perhaps fading has to do with what is used.

Really great tutorial! Thanks so much! Anxious to give it a try.

Hey, just curious what the cost of materials was approximately? Thanks 🙂

I cant give a cost because it will depend on what you want to buy. You will certainly need resin, bezels or molds, jewelry findings (costs will be different for rings, earrings, necklaces). Maybe check on Fire Mountain Gems, or on Amazon to see prices.

Hi Pearl~ I am so happy that I found your blog! I have an Amazing Orchid Plant (has 19 Flowers and has been going strong for something like 2 months… I wish I could post a picture!!), and I really wanted to capture the beauty of each flower in resin. So, does the flower need to be dried? Im afraid that dried Orchid flowers will lose their beauty… theyre white with a purple~ish and yellow center. I guess I could take one off and dry it to see… but Id also like to know your answer on the drying question. Thank you so much! Great Health & Happiness to You~ Purrs, Kat

Welcome to my blog and community, Kat! We are all passionate about jewelry making. I love orchids too! Yes, the flowers (and leaves) have to be dried otherwise they will rot inside the resin. I have seen orchids in resin before. You must dry them – the best way is burying them carefully in silica gel. (Check out my post with crystal cat litter which is silica too). Then painting many layers of resin on them. Or encase them in a large mold (wont be jewelry then!). Have a go!

Hi Pearl, I have a question for you. I have tried to make resin jewelry with flowers and found that the flower always floats to the top (which is actually the back) of the mold. How do you avoid this?

There are two possible solutions. One is to work in layers. So when you do the flower layer, make it thin. Let this layer cure before adding the next layer. The other solution is to add a transparent glue – I use Mod Podge or a small drop of resin to hold the flower down. Let this set before pouring the next batch of resin. Hope this helps.

Can you use fresh flowers as opposed to dry for this?

Alas, no. You must dry them otherwise the flowers will rot inside the resin.

do you know why our flowers changed colour while we had it inside our cabochon?

The flowers color pigments fade with long exposure to sunlight. The problem is probably more acute if you live in sunny climes. Sometimes there is a reaction with the resin itself.

ah.. I think we kept it indoor most of the time.. I think the latter is more possible. I will have to try your type of resin. It almost look like youve dyed the flowers. Its so pretty!

No, it is not really the resin but the type of flowers. You need to experiment with different kinds of flowers each of which will either react or not react with the resin. Sometimes, it takes some time for the resin effect to kick in. Using dye or paint is an option that some people use.

This tutorial is great! Im just wondering, is it possible to use big flowers for a small piece? Eg. Is it possible to use a rose for earrings, or am I limited to using small flowers? How do I shape them down to size?

Sorry if this is a pointless question but I am new to this. Any help is greatly appreciated!

No you are not limited to small flowers. But you could try carefully trimming the petals of large ones to fit the molds or bezels. You can also use larger molds like the one I used for the dandelion clock. I am hoping to try a whole small orchid at some point!

Hi Pearl, A hundred years ago, long before the Internet, I found myself in possession of some resin. I dont remember much about the process I used, other than it was a huge flop. Cant even remember much about what was wrong lol but one thing I do remember is some of the flowers bled their color into the resin. Have you experienced this? Do you think it was the type of flowers or possibly the type of resin? Its just something that I havent seen addressed and was curious about. The flowers had been dried in a white crystaly powder substance that my mom had. I assume it was silica something. Lol like I said 100 yrs ago, early 70s. Thanks for your wonderful blog. Love it!

Thanks so much for your kind words, Valerie! It helps to seal the flowers – use some sort of spray varnish if the flowers you use can bleed. Also note that real flower resin jewelry should be stored out of sunlight as some the natural pigments do fade over time with exposure.

Im looking for a mini rose petal or mini rose bud beads. Is it possible to be done? Im hoping to find a rosary thats has real roses pressed into the beads.

Can this be done with mini roses or rose petals? Im looking for a rosary with this style of heading.

Yes, it can. Round beads are trickier to do than the kinds I do here.

Thanks for this! I was wondering if you could help me as I want to make a different kind of product but using similar materials. More specifically, dried flowers in resin without a bezel – perhaps drop earrings attached to a flat disc of dried flowers. But, I am new to this and before buying heaps of products would like to problem solve in my mind!

Firstly, is it hard for you to get the finished resin out of the molds? And do you know if you could use silicon as a mould? Or even perhaps, if I wanted a more unfinished look, not have a mold at all and be able to shape something free hand on some sort of surface?

Secondly, I was thinking it could kind of be interested if I could slightly colour the resin to be still translucent but a colour – if so, any tips on what product I could use?

And can one drill in to resin, or should a mold allow for a hole to be made (to attach to an earrings base)? Or better yet, could I just let the resin set around my fixings?

Hi Rose, I suggest you look back at some of the resin tutorials I have either written or curated. Many of your questions are answered as well as many tips on what o get and how to use them.

If you use a silicon mold, the resin comes out very easily – better than a plastic mold with mold release sprayed on. If you look at the other way of making resin jewelry without the small molds, you will have to use power tools to cut up the resin block you make. The advantage though is you can make any shape you want. See this resin and wood tutorial :

Yes, you can color the resin. If you want to stay transparent use either transparent resin dye or perhaps a drop of alcohol ink.

You can drill into cured resin – most peopel do this. It is not always possible to put the findings the way they should be placed into resin before it cures. But sometimes it can be done.

I think you should just take the plunge and start with a simple mold and some resin. Once you begin, you will find that with experience and experimentation, you will understand how to make resin jewelry!!

Do not forget to check my past posts!!

These are abslutely stunning. I live in the Florida Keys and we have beautiful flowers that grow year round and I have wanted to do this. My question, what do you use to dry your flower in?

Thanks! You are lucky to have an abundance of flowers year round. I use two different methods of drying. Check out the following tutorials :

Have fun! Please check (use search box) for my other real flower jewelry ideas. One deals with fading colors.

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Make Doming Labels

The decals are printed first using either screen printing or digital printing methods. Then the printed sheets are placed on a level plate where the doming apparatus (calibrated for flow speed and the appropriate square inches of the decal) applies the liquid doming material. The doming resin used is comprised of 2 components that once mixed will harden to a crystal clear, flexible bubble coating.

Each of these plates are placed in level, dust free drying racks and left overnight to cure before they are packaged up and shipped off to the customer.

Many domed decals manufacturers utilize both automated systems such as these and manual hand operated systems. For the consumer, both systems are capable of creating quality domed decal products.

For more information or to request domed decal samples call the domed decal experts at Sticky BusinessTOLL FREE at 1 866 474-1095.

Here is a short video showing an automated doming machine in operation.

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This was a project we did a few years ago for a small company that made guitar effects pedals. This particular decal was printed and custom cut with holes for volume and attack knobs as well as space for a larger central knob for the on/off stomp switch. We then domed the decals in the []

We have had the opportunity to create domed decals for some local microbreweries specifically to be placed on their product tap handles in bars and restaurants. These decals play an important role in announcing the available on tap beers at any establishment. I always try to support the local brewers as much as I []

The decals are printed first using either screen printing or digital printing methods. Then the printed sheets are placed on a level plate where the doming apparatus (calibrated for flow speed and the appropriate square inches of the decal) applies the liquid doming material. The doming resin used is comprised of 2 components that once []

One of the greatest advantages we have with digital printing is the ability to custom cut around a design or logo. This offers a whole world of customization beyond simple circle, square and rectangle stickers. Before digital print and cut systems were available, creating a custom shaped decal required the use of a die []

Case badges are found on almost every brand name pc tower or custom built computer case. These emblems are an excellent branding tool for manufacturers and small computer service boutiques alike. The most typical size that we produce for case badges is a standard 1 x 1 round corner rectangle. It is unobtrusive yet large []

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We received our labels yesterday and they look great. Thanks to everybody at Domelabels for an outstanding job! Hopefully with the success of our new product line we will continue doing business with your company.

In a hurry? 2-3 weeks not fit your schedule? Most orders are shipped within 5 days. Expedited 24-hr and 48-hr services are available, call for details.

Quality LabelsdeliveredOn Timeto your door at anAffordable Price.

Dome Labels specializes in manufacturing customized digitally printed polyurethane domed labels for ultimate durability and a unique 3-Dimensional look. We also specialize in small production runs and prototype runs. The printing and manufacturing are done in-house, which meansbetter pricing, quality, and faster turnaround times.

We also offer as little as 24 hour turnaround services fortime-critical orders. If you have a deadline we will take extra steps to speed the delivery of your labels on time critical orders, without sacrificing quality.

Domed Labels are not just your ordinary Flat labels. Domed Labels give your product an outstanding 3-Dimensional look that make your product shine. With the polyurethane dome, your labels are more durable than just an ordinary Flat label.

Dont need a domed label? or just want a durable Flat laminated label? When a domed label isnt practical, we now offer ourTuff Labelsproducts as an alternative custom label. Just visit our Tuff label website at more details.

Dome Labels has been in business since 1991 and specializing in Doming since 2000. We look forward to bringing you the best quality and service for the rest of this century and beyond.

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Customer service is available Monday through Friday from 8am to 5:00pm EST.

We make every effort to respond to all queries & comments within 24 hours.

Fill out our Quick & Easy form for your customized quote

The plates came out perfect! Thank you so much for all your help! Looking forward to working with you all again in the near future.

Just got the labels, they look great!  Thank you so much for the hustle to get them to us early!

I appreciate how quickly you guys are working to support us your service is amazing!

Thank you for reviewing our print and bringing value added quality improvement suggestions for a better product. This is greatly appreciated!

I am very happy with how the decals came out! I will most certainly use you for all our future decal needs and have given your info to several business associates along with a glowing recommendation.

The faceplate came out very nice good fit and colors as well as the flat finish outside the window. Well Done!

Thank you very much for all your support and hard work. We appreciate all you did. Thank you!

Just got the labels, they look awesome as always!  You guys do great work!

Many thanks for getting our RAD Galaxy bottom labels to us so quickly. The production team is happyand then so am I.

You have an outstanding customer service and production  staff . I had a rush order recently.  My customer was very concerned Stressed  about the delivery . Which  meant I was BECOMING  stressed  !! Working with your team is great  !!  You made it happen and  the order  shipped ahead of schedule . My customer was thrilled  !! So hats off to NFI FOR A JOB WELL DONE  !!!!   NFI always exceeds my expectations. I love doing business  with NFI   !!!!  Thanks again

We give your Products the identification and the recognition they deserve ®.

In addition to servicing all major West Coast areas including Los Angeles, San Diego & the Inland Empire, we also service Mexico and the European market.

With over 25 years experience in the label business, our areas of expertise include

Weve developed a short questionnaire and contact form that will help us understand the needs of your project and make sure its a good fit for what OC Label does.

If you think OC Label would be a good fit for your upcoming project, then we have a short questionnaire wed like you to complete so that our first conversation can be as productive as possible.

We are big enough to handle the largest & most complex jobs, small enough to give you the personal service you deserve.

Car Chrome Decals can make custom and customized emblems for you and your company or organization.

We can customize any of ourBezel emblems, License plate frame or Hitch coverfor your design. Size and shape remains the same. Insert will be changed to your artwork.

35$ set up charges will apply to the order on top of per part cost as listed.

Domed decals can be done custom (custom size and shape with your own artwork) without minimum. Please inquire for a quote.

We make custom emblems. Please inquire.

For your choice: Chrome emblems, Plastic emblems, Domed decals. As well as Plastic license plate frames and Plastic hitch covers.

4. type of adhesive (die cut or strip of tape)

Plastic and chrome emblems 300 parts

Custom License plate frames and hitch covers 500 parts

Domed decals no minimum. Price based on quantity.

Bradley can provide you with high-quality printed labels, which are then transformed with the addition of a crystal clear domed lens. Labels are converted into the 3D world with the use of high grade polyurethane resins. This makes products UV resistant, weather resistant, tamper-proof and durable; while creating a visual impression of value and quality.

The transformation of a printed label into a visually striking domed label can give your brand name high impact, open the door into prestigious new markets and lead to greater profits for your business.

Labels can be printed onto a variety of different types of self-adhesive materials. Bradley offers professional advice on the design of your printed & domed labels to ensure eye-catching, 3D appeal.

Bradley Nameplates competitive pricing will show you how easily you can add this dimension to your corporate image.

With a brief description, quantity & size, we can give you that QuickQuote ASAP (Click Here)

1180 Page Avenue, Fremont, CA 94538 (Map)


Becoming a wonderful jumper is not as simple as you think. If in order to a jumping athlete, you need to learn more about the best jumping methods that improve your capacity to jump. Is actually possible to such a shameful thing when jumpers produce an insignificant score, isnt this situation?

You may use doming printing without a doubt things. You may be aware that doming printing is made use of in clothing and text sheets. But they additionally be used by other areas, such as compared to the production of product labels, putting designs on balloons, printing circuit boards, and adding designs to medical devices.

You can decorate pick which gift on something that are able to apply the polyurethane spray to with regard to example toy chests and jewelry boxes! The polyurethane not only holds the designs in place, it coats these for a protectant so that they be cleaned with a damp publication!

Other conventional items in addition be be transformed into supplies. Pasta comes in the wide variety of shapes and can also be dyed or painted, newspaper and magazines could be rolled into beads and sealed with doming products, Old watch, clock and computer parts can be turned into unique craft items also.

Consider screen printing for band t-shirts, team t-shirts, Christian t-shirts, casual wear, team spirit wear, club t-shirts or personal closets. Custom shirts, when you buy name brand, can last through connected with wear and washing. Screen printing companies can even hold your designs on file for contract screen printing things. This is useful for bands, corporate apparel and branding a business.

Shop for that best leather possible. Remarkable the first things in order to should think about when pc jacket will be the leather that is fabricated of. A doming equipment leather will a person with an individual need once it heats up comes to quality, comfort, and housing.

Not only can find custom printed t-shirts, an individual can screen print on almost anything else. Hot press screen printing is ideal for thicker or heavier prints, such because ones find on jerseys. You can get hats, sweatshirts, tank tops and a wide associated with other custom apparel.

To place bluntly, it looked simply like a wet bit of maple. Considering this stated it gave a gloss finish, I expected the wood to upwards with a bit of a shine, but which was not my experience. Put on pounds . NO gloss to the wood whichever. I am very disappointed in merchandise. If you use it, Hopefully you have better results than I did so.

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Dome or Domed Labels Suppliers serving Florida

Ultraviolet (UV) Coated or Ultraviolet (UV) Cured Labels

Welcome to the premier industrial source for Dome or Domed Labels in Florida.These companies offer a comprehensive range of Dome or Domed Labels, as well as a variety of related products and services. provides numerous search tools, including location, certification and keyword filters, to help you refine your results. Click on company profile for additional company and contact information.

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ISO/TS 16949:2009 registered custom manufacturer of pressure sensitive labels, decals, nameplates & die cut adhesives for the automotive, aerospace, electronic, medical, pharmaceutical, transportation & appliance industries. UL/CSA approvals. Proprietary technology includes plate less & die less capabilities, order any size any shape without the die or plate costs. Prototype labels to full production runs. Wide array of materials. Withstand exposure to harsh environments, outside elements, adhere to abrasive surfaces. Other products include thermal imprintable, thermal transfer labels, ribbons & equipment & die cut adhesive components. 3M® preferred converter. Products are made in the USA.

Custom manufacturer of digital print imaging clear poly domed labels. Available in materials such as vinyl, polyester, polypropylene, paper, and aluminum foil. Features include UV and abrasion resistant over laminates, flat sheet and roll form formats, and pressure sensitivity. Suitable for applications such as tamper-evident, hard hat, school and group promo sticker, equipment marking, security, inside-outside window, service tag. Additional fabrication services include steel rule die and laser cutting, cold seal laminating, CNC milling and punching, doming, and embossing. Serves the commercial, industrial, and consumer markets. Provides rush delivery services.

Custom Manufacturer*, Manufacturer, Manufacturers Rep

ISO 9001:2008 certified manufacturer & designer of standard & custom dome or domed urethane labels for product ID & badges. Materials include polycarbonate, polyester & vinyl. Available in gloss finish. Capabilities include graphic design & engineering. CSA certified. UL listed.

Distributor*, Manufacturer, Custom Manufacturer, Service Company

Distributor of domed labels including thermal transfer labels in materials including gloss polyester. Domed labels are resistant to high heat, direct sunlight, moisture & harsh environmental conditions. UL® & CSA® certified.

Manufacturer of stock & custom dome or domed labels including membrane keypads. Equipment, identification, information, instruction, decal, overlay, large format & metal nameplate labels are also available. Capabilities include designing, engineering, consulting, printing, screen printing, flexography, die cutting, laser cutting, rotary cutting up to 2 in., embossing up to 0.030 in. thickness, stamping, laminating, assembly, holography, packaging, engraving & testing.

Custom Manufacturer*, Manufacturer, Service Company

Custom manufacturer of printed dome or domed labels including urethane dome or domed labels. Capabilities include graphic & illustration designing, retail branding, visual merchandizing, screen printing, offset printing, digital roll to roll printing, digital flat bed printing, die cutting, trim cutting, CNC routing/cutting, kit/bulk packing & fulfillment. Screen printing can be done in sizes up to 144 in. x 72 in. in 2 lines & 5 colors & UV offset printing in sizes up to 48 in. x 77 in.

Custom manufacturer of domed labels for various markets including commercial, industrial, marine, power generation, electrical supply and services, technology, processing plant and manufacturing, transportation, OEM, and government manufacturing sectors. Specifications include 8.25 to 54 in. width and 39 mil maximum thickness. Equipment used includes digital printers, cutters, vacuum doming systems, and CNC plotters. Engineering, powder coating, CNC dispensing, metal fabrication, MIG and TIG welding, scanning, and machining services are also provided.

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Watch the video below to see everything Mcloone can offer you, including our specialties of metal labels and nameplates, vinyl decals, self-adhesive vinyl labels, doming, asset tags, metal signs and polycarbonate identification graphics. Materials available for your identification labels include aluminum, stainless steel, vinyls, foils, polycarbonates, polyesters and many more.

Topics:asset tagsBlogdomingmetal signspolycarbonateEverythingExternal Videosnameplatespolyesterself adhesive labelsVideosvinyl decals

Our blog offerscurrentandrelevantinformation regarding a vast array of industrial topics.

These topics include manufacturing, nameplates, labels, printing, doming, and much more.

Based in La Crosse, WI, Mcloone (aka Mcloone Metal Graphics) is a manufacturer of custom decals, custom nameplates and pressure sensitive labels. Founded in 1954 by James E. Mcloone, we are now recognized as one of the worlds leading providers of high-quality identification graphics.

Mcloone is a business of JSJ of Grand Haven, Michigan, U.S., a privately held corporation that actively designs, develops, markets and brands a group of durable goods and services throughout the world.

Our specialties include metal labels and nameplates, vinyl decals, self-adhesive vinyl labels, doming, asset tags, metal signs and polycarbonate identification graphics. Materials available for your identification labels include aluminum, stainless steel, vinyls, foils, polycarbonates, polyesters and many more.

All this and great customer service means that Mcloone is there when customers need us the most. Artwork services, in-house tooling, fast turnaround time and a dedicated staff all result in a stress-free customer experience. With Mcloones guidance, customers identification products arrive as designed and on time.

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