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PLA resin

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200 Metric Ton/Metric Tons per Month PLA resin

PLA resin

25kg/bag coated with aluminium film

PLA (polylactide) resin is quite suitable for SHEET molding thanks to its good hardness, which can be directly molded into finish products, e.g. disposable tableware,buffer boxes, stationery series products, etc.

Different colors are available: transparent, white, coffee, green…

100% biodegradable and compostable in 90 days

, easy colorability and printability.

Anti-bacteria naturally, suitable for products closely contacted with human body

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Resin experiment

In my first post I went over why I prefer Amazing Clear Cast to Easy Cast Resin. I dont want to seem one sided, I originally started with Easy Cast resin and it was definitely hit & miss. I tried all the tricks & tips I could find.

Even with these tips I often found out of the same batch of poured resin, some of my pieces would remain tacky. Some would cure perfectly. I was using the same types of bezels & following all the rules. It seemed very unstable and unpredictable. So i switched, however it left me with a good amount of Easy Cast Resin at my disposal. I spent $25 on them, I couldnt see myself just throwing them away! So to better back why I dont use easy cast ive started a little battle of the resins experiment. I know that some people swear by easy cast, and to them I say I am jealous. I wish I could get it to work for me, but alas, there has been no hope. BUT in a last attempt, I have followed all the guidelines today, and poured a batch of easy Cast resin.

The temperature is 82 outside, 73 inside, humidity is 50% ( I live in the south, 50% humidity is like heaven and doesnt happen everyday).

Lets start from the beginning!

Doming Trays ( i love them since theyre nicely leveled)

I have given my resin bottles a 15 minute soak in warm water, to the point that the bottles are warm (BUT NOT HOT) to the touch.

Pour equal parts of resin & hardener, Resin is seriously yuck to touch, so ya always gotta be careful, but i usually get it everywhere!

I obviously didnt get photographic evidence of this, but do you really need it? I mix at a slow-medium pace, making sure not to whip the resin up, every 30 seconds I stop, scrape the bottoms of the cup, and then scrape my mixing stick to make sure its fully mixed. I mix for 4 minutes. I watch the clock, mixing is so boring. What I have found with Easy Cast VS Amazing clear cast is that EasyCast bubbles dont pop easily for me. Amazing Clear Cast pops the bubbles as its mixing. If those bubbles even get near the top, they pop. But easy cast resin wasnt popping for me, which is no big deal since I dont focus on popping bubbles until theyre in their shallow molds. I usually have several other cups around for separate colors, with their own mixing wands. Today Im using Castin Craft Red Opaque Pigment & Castin Craft Black Opaque Pigment.

2 things I have learned with these pigments:

1. The red bottle is nearly open-and pour easy. I give it a few shakes to just be sure, but its usually not even needed. But the black, you seriously cant shake this bottle, beat it against a counter top, whatever, enough. Even after you pour, MIX MIX MIX MIX MIX that black into that resin! Or itll be uneven with opaque and slightly translucent pigments. Which is a nightmare. If you notice in the photo above, you can see that the red resin stick shows that its slightly translucent higher up on the mixing stick. Stir it some MOAR!

2. Adding less is best, youre going to have to experiment. Finding that happy medium is difficult, I wont even lie. Pouring too little of the pigment will make it slightly translucent, but adding to much will make your piece bendy like Taffy.

I did snap a photo of my resin after it was mixed, all bubbly. But like I said, I focus on bubbles AFTER theyre in their molds.

This is probably my least favorite part. I instantly regret every cup of coffee & every 8 oz redbull ive drank because i get so shakey trying not to make a mess, but I always do. If youre using molds, put some playdough under the mold BEFORE pouring to level the mold. I actually found a playdough recipe so I could do this. Check out this amazing recipe forPlaydough!

Popping Bubbles. I use a long-necked lighter, like the ones people BBQ with. Wave the flame over the resin, and Ive found its actually a little difficult to burn resin, but I might just be lucky, so be careful because resin is flammable! The key I have found to minimizing resin bubbles is to pour shallow layers. I pop the initial bubbles after theyre in their molds, 2 hours later, I like to come back and pop any more bubbles that may have developed when I add inclusions (Photos, beads, paper, whatevers). Its best to pop the bubbles while the resin is still somewhat liquid to avoid pop marks.

Step Six: Put those molds somewhere safe.

I keep mine in the oven, not alot of humidity, and out of the way. Plus I spend enough time in the kitchen, I can check on them whenever I want. I usually lay a piece of paper or cardboard over the heating coils in the oven incase any resin tries to escape and fall into my oven. I do however have ALOT of glitter in my ovenlol YAY GLITTER! Sorry husband 😦

Step Seven: CLEAN IT UPPPP while youre waiting.

I start cleaning instantly if there were any spills or drippings. My kitchen counter is already ugly, but no reason to make it worse!

I use alcohol & Pam (or similar) to clean everything. Measuring cups, mixing wands, counter tops, my hands. lol

Spray it with pam, wipe it as best as you can, then just clean it with rubbing alcohol or nail polish remover with acetone. Although I prefer Rubbing Alcohol, ive used both.

I should say to do this in some kind of cleanly manner, but I cant stand the stickiness or resin, i really just drown everything in pam & rubbing alcohol lol.

Also its a great tip to keep the cups you poured resin with, just long enough to check the tackiness of the resin. The worst feeling in the world is thinking your resin is done, touching it, and leaving a fingerprint across youre super amazing, favorite piece. Instead of doing that, check your resin cups. If the leftover resin is still tacky, you can bet your resin piece is.

I know alot of places say that a fingerprint is impossible to fix, but thats just not true. Its not ruined, with the right patience and techniques it can be fixed. I cant tell you how many resin pieces ive thrown away thinking they were just destroyed and as ive learned, found they could have been saved :(.

Thats about it for now, check back tomorrow for the results of this resin pour!

I dropped the ball, I should have dropped the mic.

Easy Cast VS Amazing Clear Cast Part 1 ( Easy Cast)

First Post!! Getting to know the Geek behind the boutique!

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luluslists

My personal blog sharing my creative, photographic and exploring efforts

I love my Pandora bracelet. It was given to me by my father and his wife, as a graduation present. The first charms were a fish and a graduation hat. Since then many more beads have been added; a turtle, snake, strawberry picked out by my children as Mothers Day gifts. Theres a star charm from our trip to the states, a bible from when we got baptised and house from our purchase last year. If you meet anyone sporting one of these charm bracelets, ask them their story. We love sharing the meaning behind every charm.

I am super excited about these resin keepsakes! I hope I can create personal charms, to commemorate, celebrate and mourn.

Using a silicone mould, I fill the cavities with resin and place the keepsake, whether it be shells, hair or ash. They set over night. I pull the pair from the mould and let sit for a few days before filing down and sanding the edge.

Using E6000 jewellery glue I finish the charm off with a silver plated grommet.

They look stunning on a black braided leather bracelet. I have gifted these to my lil nieces for their birthdays. I look forward to adding charms as they grow and reach mile stones in their lives.

I have listed personalised charms on Trade Me and  Etsy and have a couple in store in Hamiltons New Zealand handmade home dcor and gift shopStory

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Posted inGetting CreativeResin Efforts

Check out my latest resin efforts! Texture rich plates made using shells and pebbles collected from New Zealands Coromandel beaches, Sailors Grave and Tairua Beach.

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Posted inGetting CreativeResin Efforts

Taggeddomingepoxy resinnorskiresinresin necklace charms

To finish off my necklace charms I domed the base. This side was exposed to the air when curing and formed a concave side to the piece.

I purchased Norski Doming Resin, which mixes easily at a 2 : 1 ratio with its hardener.

The hardest part was seeing where the edge of the piece was as it too was clear. I had a few pieces ruined as the doming resin overflowed and dripped down the sides.

It took a good 48hrs for the doming resin to semi cure. I wrecked a few more pieces testing the surface too early and getting my finger all tacky!

All and all a great product, and well worth the effort to make the pieces look complete, professional and tidy.

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Posted inGetting CreativeResin Efforts

Taggedembedding paper. modge podgeresinresin obsessionsilicon moldsilicone mouldsuper sap CCR

I gave paper embedding another go, and Im pleased I did! This time I used Modge Podge to seal the paper and Entropy Super Sap CCR Resin in a silicone mould!

First step was to cut the circles to be embedded. I used a circle cut from wax paper to use as a guide of where to cut.

Then each piece was laid out on wax paper and coated twice with Modge Podge, before pealing off, flipping over and laying out on a fresh piece of wax paper to be painted with the Modge Podge again.. And again.

Next each circle is pedalled off and trimmed, preferably leaving a small edge of dried M.P.

I greased the silicone mould by wiping it down with some spray oil. Then filled the cavities with about 5mm of the Fibreglass Shops Entropy Super Sap CCR Resin, and let cure.

Then I poured another 5mm of resin and embedded the pieces of paper, being careful not to trap air bubbles.

The following day the pieces were cured and could be removed from the mould.

Im super happy with the results and will glue some magnets to the back with Clear Liquid Nails!

There were a few marks where the paper wasnt completely sealed by the Modge Podge, and the resin has seeped thru, but not a major ; ) (maybe 3 coats next time)

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Posted inGetting CreativeResin Efforts

Taggedluluslistsresinresin and sandresin bowlresin obsessionsuper sap CCR

I really love the look of sand in resin so will definitely be making more!

I used some empty containers as a mould. Cut the base off the larger bowl so that I could pour in the resin. I used silicone to stick the bowls to the ice cream lid base.

Rookie mistake was to leave the label on the smaller bowl. This got stuck to the resin and needed sanding off once cured.

The sand had been washed and left in the sun to dry before use.

The resin I used was from the Fibreglass Shop. Ordered online and delivered the following day! Awesome service. (Would be nice if the safety infomation and instructions were included with the epoxy and its hardener, instead of having to print it off online myself.)

I use Entropy Super Sap CCR Epoxy Resin. Its easy to mix and quick to harden, and doesnt have the nasty smell that polyester resins have.

Not sure what it is worth so have popped it for sale on Trade Me ; )

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Posted inGetting CreativeResin Efforts

Taggedembedding in resinepoxyresinsuper sap CCR

So I was recommended an epoxy resin to use, and to be honest, two pots of Kleer Kast Polyester Resin and Im over it. It smells soooo bad, takes ages to fully cure, and often leaves a tacky surface which needs doming or sanding to eliminate.

So I purchased 1.5L of Entropy Super Sap CCR (Clear Cast Resin) from the Fibreglass Shop in Hamilton.

It was so easy to mix, a 1:2 ratio to a hardener, and didnt smell!!!!

I ordered a silicone soap mould, and had a go embedding insects and a fern that I had been drying out.

I wiped down the mould with spray cooking oil, then half filled each space with resin. After curing for 30min I placed the pieces and left over night.

The following day I filled the spaces, covering the pieces to be embedded, and left the mould under a dome to fully cure.

It was a hot day and by the afternoon they were fully cured, with no tacky surface!!!!

I messed up tho and had quite a few boo boos.

The insects had continued to bubble. I should have stayed and watched it cured for a while ensuring all bubbles were expelled.

Even the fern was crappy. I should have pressed it firmly into place to push the bubbles out.

Oppsie. Oh well, heaps of fun playing in my shed ; ) will try again tomorrow.

Loving Fibreglass Shops Entropy Super Sap CCR (Clear Cast Resin). Purchased online via their website and couriered to my doorstep the very next day.

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Posted inGetting CreativeResin Efforts

Taggedembedding in resininsects in resinnorski Kleer Kastresin

Using these ice cube trays that had been wiped down with some spray cooking oil I made these awesome embedded resin pieces. They can either be left as curious pieces or have a hole drilled through to make beautiful pieces of jewellery.

I simply filled each mould compartment with Norski Kleer Kast Diamond Embedding Resin, waiting for it to cure a little then placed my insects, feathers and pressed leaves.

I topped up the compartments, and covered the trays until fully cured. With a twist of the trays the pieces easily popped out. The surface exposed to the air stayed a bit tacky for a couple of days. I could have coated that surface with Norski Doming resin to seal it, but in the hot weather we have been having lately, they hardened on their own.

The insects used had been drying out in my hot water cupboard for a week prior, and the fern leaves had been pressed dry. If there is any moisture in the object you will get a milky white appearance on them once embedded, and I suppose they will rot.

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Posted inGetting CreativeResin Efforts

Taggedresinresin bracelet mould moldsilicon moldsilicone mould

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Posted inGetting CreativeResin Efforts

Taggedepoxy resinresinresin braceletssilicon moldsilicone mouldsuper sap CCR

This was a really fun project. I love using silicone to make moulds. I started making my moulds with liquid latex, which is very time consuming and the result is a much more flimsy less durable mould. I purchase my liquid latex and silicone from

I found this basic wooden bracelet at our local op shop, purchased for $1. I pressed pins into one side of the bracelet and trimmed them to approx. 5mm long. This created a kinda of tripod that the bracelet could stand on, so that the silicone would surround the entire bracelet, leaving a couple of tiny knobs to sand off at the edge, rather than a complete blunt edge to round.

I placed the bracelet inside a plastic container, and blue tacked a small bottle to the centre. I lightly sprayed it with cooking oil to aid in mould release.

Then I got ready to mix the silicone.

STM Pro provides very clear instructions with their product, outlining all the safety precautions necessary and the correct ratios of silicone to catalyst.

Very happy with the end result, and look forward to producing some unique bracelets using Super Sap Clear Casting Epoxy Resin purchased online from

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Taggednorski clear resinresinresin obsession

Well my creative efforts have lead me to resin! And yes, I now have a resin obsession! Im not sure why Im always interested in hobbies that are bad for my health and my skin!!! I am not going to age well : (

I have quite a collection of purchased and handmade moulds made from latex and silicone which I am playing around with. Everywhere I look I now see mould potential; ice cube trays, cupcake trays, cheese and cracker containers, plastic lids.

The discovery of resin was inevitable. Living coastally in New Zealand I am surrounded by so many other creative people, using the environment as their inspiration. I try to walk my dog every day in the bush or on the beach, combing for tiny treasures. So resin is the prefect medium for me to capture these collections.

Also, it results in a beautiful, light weight, durable product that I hope to market to the curious tourist  ; ) So much more potential than my previous efforts using plaster and concrete, whose market is somewhat limited!

After a lot of late nights researching resin and the range of uses I purchased my first can of Norski Kleer-Kast Diamond clear liquid embedding resin. I ordered it online from Total Body Shop, along with some white pigment. It arrived safely a couple of days later, and I was off!

The resin is easy to use, using just drops of a catalyst to start the curing. I found a perfect mould to practice on, using the plastic containers the Dip ngos crackers come in. They needed 30ml of the resin and 6 drops of the catalyst. I didnt use any release wax, and once cured I could simply cut a nip in the plastic and peal the mould away. I was pretty excited and should have left them to cure longer, so unfortunately got a few finger prints on the pieces ; )

I have a small glass front fridge that I use for storing my work while it is curing. This helps prevent debris contaminating the pieces and also helps contain the potent smell!

You can see in the crab piece below loose sand that has set in the resin

Some other things I tried was coating a kina I resin and using my silicone moulds to make a domed magnet, sandy beads for my Pandora bracelet and a cicada encapsulated necklace droplet.

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Throwing a Clay BowlonThrowing a ClayBowl

Creative blogger inspired by New Zealand and all its beauty

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Tag Archives UV curing resin

If you are a fan of crafting with resin, heres a brand-spanky-new product for you to try: UV curing resin bySakura Hobby Craft(not to be confused with the gelly pen folks!) I snagged this kit atCHA Summer, and tried it out quickly in the booth.

I figured it was high time to try out all of the goodies in the package, which included:

Two-part UV (sunlight) curing resin

3 packs of gem particles in raspberry, peacock green and blue flash

wood styluses aka toothpicks!

I wasnt sure what exactly gem particles were, so I had to tear into those flashy little baggies first. As far as I can tell, they are a finely-shredded acrylic substance. They are itsy-bitsy, so make sure you dont have a fan runningthey might blow away!

They sure are shiny, though, and I started following my kits step-by-step pictorial instructions to trace and cut some cardstock, then glue it into a jewelry tray. After spreading a thin coat of UV Base Coat, you dab on some of the gem particles and they stick right on. Then you set it in the sun for 1 to 3 minutes.or if you live in the Midwest, you stick in under your UV light (which Sakura also sells, but you can find them readily on auction sites and beauty retailers).

After this first step, this is how my project looked so far. Very sparkly and shiny. But I did notice that this layer is mildly tacky and will leave fingerprints, just so you know.

You then need to make sure that none of those little acrylic particles are sticking up too highso you give it a little scrape. This ensures that your second coat of UV Base Coat will completely encapsulate the gem particles, resulting in a smooth, domed, glass like finish.

After the second base coat, you apply one more layer- the UV Top Coat that will eliminate the tackiness and keep it shining like glass. This layer takes significantly longer to cure- 15 minutes or more in the sun. I left mine for over 30 minutes in my UV light, and it cured well. However, there was still some gooey cleanup to do, as some of the resin had overflowed and seeped underneath. Of course, because the UV rays didnt reach it, it didnt harden. Nothing a little baby wipe couldnt clean right up!

As is my habit, I decided to try this same technique on a few different projects. The first was to use the jewelry tray without the black background. In this sample, I used some mica-painted sheet music as my base layer, and then added my gem particles. I have to say, I like this effect, too.

Just for hoots, I also tried it out on a piece of tumbled glass (faux beach glass) to see if it really took on a faux dichroic glass look. The UV resin has enough viscosity that it stayed on the top of the glass without dripping down the sides. (I made sure to use thinner layers, since there was no dam to keep the resin in place.) I really like this effect- itll look great with some wire-wrapping!

Lastly, I added some resin to make a glassy top-coat to a polymer clay pendant. As stated on the box, it bonded well and provided a great finish.

Unlike some other UV resins Ive tried, this one seems to stay where you put it. Some others have a tendency to pull away from the edges, leaving some areas uncoated. Sakuras UV resin gave me great coverage and a nice doming effect as well.

Slightly less expensive than other UV curing resins

VERY sparkly gem particles that give great believability

Items available on the website for purchase

MUCH faster than using traditional 2-part mixing resins

Not sure if the kit is going to be widely available; not currently listed on the Sakura Hobby Craftwebsitewhich leads to:

Difficult to find in retail outlets

Mild odor to the resin; be aware if you are scent-sensitive

So, I think Id like to play some more with this UV resin, and see if what they are offering on their site is one or two-part. In any case, I will certainly continue to use this product in my jewelry-crafting arsenal.

Have you had experience with UV curing resins? Any feedback youd like to share? Leave us a comment and let us know!

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More Resin over Polymer

Necklace and Earrings from blue and yellow swirl cane. Coated in Resin.

Here are a few more polymer clay cane slices that I attached to black clay. I usually run them through the pasta machine afterward to get an even top, as you cant always slice each cane piece exactly the same thickness. I try to make the black sheet of clay a few notches down from the thickest, so that when I run it through (on the thickest) after adding the cane slices it doesnt distort the cane pattern too much. I either cut random shapes out with a blade, like squares or triangles, or I use a cookie cutter. Right now I only have a set of flower shapes, but I hope to get other shapes soon. After baking, I had been setting them on deli paper to pour the resin on, but have been having problems lately with the resin dripping over the sides (even when I am trying to be SUPER careful) and then I have paper sticking to piece sometimes, which is a pain in the butt to get off without leaving a trace. So this time I set them on a wire rack, which worked better, but still not ideal. The ones that did drip and stick, they stuck to the metal wire and instead of having to try and pick paper off, I was forced to peel off the ENTIRE piece of resin, which did come off in one big piece.

green pixelated retro cane and an orange and blue cane (from FL Gator football season last year)

Resin over polymer clay Earrings with dangles

I bought some colored foil paper from a company called Little Windows, they have these special foils that you put inside of resin and they are the closest thing I have found to making a piece of resin that looks like dichroic glass. Super Cool! Anyway, they sell a doming tray which is made exactly for drying resin pieces on, and it is only like 3 or 5 dollars, so I am going to order that. If you like dichroic looking pieces, I highly recommend checking out FransLittle Windowswebsite. Everything is priced very reasonably.

pink, white and green circles from a failed flower attempt, and blue and yellow swirly cane.

Some leftover cane scraps from other projects mounted on black clay base

This entry was posted inPolymer Clay,Resin Jewelryand taggedjewelry,jewelry making,pendants,polymer clay,resin,resin jewelrybyhppiefrk. Bookmark thepermalink.

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The Doming Manufacturing Process

Cutting and Doming of Domed Stickers CDDS

Printing and Doming of Dome Stickers PDDS

Cutting and Doming of Domed Stickers CDDS

Printing and Doming of Dome Stickers PDDS

The doming process begins with liquid polyurethane resin, guaranteed for five years of exterior use without changing.

The resin is pumped out of the drum into the dispensing machine. This machine has dispensing needles that can be configured to the individual sheet layout. The CNC controlled machine positions the needles as required.

The needles eject resin onto the label. The resin spreads out until it meets the edge of the label. Surface tension keeps the resin from running off the label and conforming to the label shape.

A catalytic reaction kicks in and the resin starts to harden. Within a few minutes the labels can be stacked on trays.

The labels cure overnight and are ready to be delivered the next day.

We use the latest technology for the manufacture and supply of domed stickers and labels.

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High viscosity, for a variety of plastics have a greater adhesion

Thepositioningtimeoftheabovethatisunderglassandglassbondingin40-wattPhilipsintensityof7.5mW/cm2uvlightconditionmeasured.

First,cleanthematerialsurface,drythesurface,andwaitforthefullydriedbeforedispensing.

Second,The glue uniform point (down) in which material surface, and the other piece material placed on the glue Department to conduct light fitting, forced discharge, and squeeze the glue leveling bubble to determine the bonding sites are covered by the glue and fixed a good position.

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Resin and Pressed Flowers Bubble Trouble

In this blog I will present commented discussions on the advantages and disadvantages of various art resins; discuss how to prepare flowers for use with resin and which flowers have worked best/not worked for me. I will be presenting interviews and discussions with other pressed flower and resin artists. I will have a tip of the day section.

Im hoping that lots of you contribute; comments, arguments and disagreements are always welcome. Resin is such a complex medium that we all have something to learn. Besides, tweaks and even new resin products are coming out all the time.

Hi, thank all of you for the great response for my first two blogs. I am greatly encouraged! Sometimes I feel like I am a tiny invisible mite in a huge sea of resin workers, bloggers, and, especially, jewelry sellers.

One of the biggest difficulties I have in working with resin and flowers is with the resin molds, which I call reverse molds, because the face of the piece is at the bottom of the mold. (I get my molds at Michaels, or online at Resin Obsession or other craft sites.)

After I spray the mold with mold release (available wherever the molds are sold–ooh, sorry, it rhymes!), I set the mold upside down on a newspaper to dry, at least a couple of hours; then I respray it and again let it dry. Im finding that spraying it twice results in very shiny pieces.) Then I set the flower face down in the mold; pour in enough resin to just cover the flower and then press gently on the flower with a sponge makeup stick to press the air bubbles out. The problem comes either with obstinate bubbles as in the piece above, or in very delicate flowers which bruise:

so if I push on them the petals either show darkened, or eaten out. Sometimes the flower is full enough that I can moisten it first with resin or pull it into the resin with plastic flat tweezers, thereby avoiding the bubbles, but most flowers tear or fold if I try that.

Basically, its come down to patience: small taps or pushing gently on the flowers to walk the bubbles out to the side and avoiding using the most bruisable flowers in the reverse molds.

Now just a small mention about the bubbles you get on the surface: these are pretty easily taken care of by gently blowing on them with a straw; or passing a heat gun over them, or in the case of more obstinate resins that really dont want to let go of those bubbles, Ive used a little butane torch to pass the flame over. Since I mostly use Colores Doming Resin or Colores general resin, I can get the surface bubbles off with a straw.

Thank you again for your encouragement! Next blog Ill show you a few pieces by other resin-flower artists which I absolutely love. Also, Ill discuss the few of the tools I find absolutely essential in working with resin. Chris

Labels:bruises on flowersbubblescolorespressed flowerspressespressing flowersresinstools

Chris, I have a few questions. Can you use Envirotex Lite in molds? I have only used it to coat flowers that I have laminated and cut out. It works great for that, but dont know about molds, as it would require a deeper layer. Also, I have some molds that are made out of a rigid white plastic. They look very similar to the resin molds on Dick Blick website. I have to get some mold release, then I think I will give this a try. Lynn

Hi, yes, Ive used Envirotex Lite a lot in molds. Not sure about the rigid plastic molds, I was never able to get things out of molds that werent pushable even after putting 2 or 3 sprays of mold release in before filling the trays. The resin molds on Dick Blick are pushable and twistable so if you wait at least 24 hours and the resin is REALLY dry and hard, they pop out when pushed from below. Hope this helps, Chris

Gorgeous pendants! Thanks to reading your lovely blog, I am getting more and more convinced by the second to try using resin myself.

Nice stuff dear. I like itPrincess diamond ringsSapphire pendants

I love flowers, old photos,sewing scuba diving. I am a wife, mom, ICU nurse, and avid crafter. I sell pressed flower jewelry on Etsy and ArtFire.I also have a shop LacyPants on Etsy for custom lacy, feminine panties for all sizes. My other blog is Antique Family Photos (

Tools I Use with Resin; and a wonderful Pressed F…

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