Tag Archives: working

Working with Steel

Calculate Tube Substitution for Schedule Pipe

Calculate Tube Substitution for Other Tube

Calculate Tube Section Properties and Load Characteristics

Calculate Required Tube Size Using Structural Properties

Specifications for Galvanized Structural Steel Tube Pipe

Welding/Restoring Corrosion Resistance

One of the reasons that steel is so prominent in our society is its versatility. This section focuses on the ways that steel can be altered to fit the specific needs of your application. Here we cover some of the basics of welding, coating and storing galvanized steel tube products.

With an ever expanding range of uses, Allied Tube Conduits in-line galvanized tubing must be versatile. Our capabilities include shapes such as: round, square, rectangle and flat-sized ovals. These shapes come in a number of different wall thicknesses for use in the majority of mechanical and structural applications. Allied tube Conduits tubing is manufactured to ASTM A500. Custom requirements are available to meet your specific needs.

We guarantee a minimum 50 ksi yield and 55 ksi tensile on many of our products with the ability to achieve even higher properties.  Compared to Schedule 40 pipe at 30 ksi, Allied Tube Conduits tubing provides a variety of higher strength alternatives. Custom steels are available such as HSLA and DS.

Allied Tube Conduits signature in-line galvanizing process exhibits superior corrosion resistance by utilizing a triple layer of protection.  First a 99.99% pure SHG zinc coating is applied to the surface, followed by a conversion coating. The process is completed by adding a clear organic topcoat that seals the surface and produces a smooth shiny finished product unique to Allied Tube Conduit.

Due to its 99.99% pure SHG zinc coating, Allied Tube Conduit tubing can be easily welded. Contrary to popular belief, all galvanized products do not perform identically in regards to welding suitability. Weld performance is an important feature of the Allied Tube Conduits tubing product.

Allied Tube Conduits tubing is also capable of being fabricated using several different methods including hole-punching, cutting, flattening, bending, swage, etc. All of these operations can be performed without cracking, flaking or otherwise damaging the integrity of the coatings. This is one of the unique advantages of Allieds in-line galvanized process.

There is nothing standard about our mill cut lengths. Custom mill lengths from Allied Tube Conduit allow you to minimize the scrap generated when having to cut standard lengths of pipe products.

Welding/Restoring Corrosion Resistance

Columbia MBFs Aluminum Rigid Conduit is easy to install, is lightweight & about 1/3 the weight of steel

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Tips for working with epoxy resin

Where resin crafting is more than a passion, it is an OBSESSION

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Whether youre new to epoxy resin or a seasoned professional, I hope you can find a few helpful hints working with epoxy resin:

Epoxy resins come in two parts: the resin and the hardener. When the two parts are mixed together, a chemical reaction occurs that changes the epoxy from a liquid to a solid. Small amounts are mixed together, usually in a specific proportion (a specific amount of resin with a specific amount of hardener).  There is a pot time to the resin (period of time that the resin is still liquid enough to work with) versus curing time (the amount of time needed for the epoxy to completely harden).  Each epoxy resin is different!  For proper curing, the resin needs to be mixed thoroughly in the correct proportions.

Follow manufacturers instructions and safety precautions.

Work in a clean and well-ventilated area.

Depending on materials used, strongly consider wearing a respirator, rubber gloves and eye protection.

Follow manufacturers recommendations for clean up. Dispose of all waste materials in accordance with local regulations.

Cover the work area with wax paper. Most resins dont stick to wax paper.

Prepare a level surface for items to dry on that will not be disturbed.  (And speaking from personal experience herewatch out for the cat hair!!!)

Create trays for curing items. Also cover these trays with wax paper so any items where resin spills over the side will not stick to the surface of the drying surface.

Cover the curing resin with a dome or box so dust does not ruin the finish.

Tips for using paper images embedded in resin

To prevent discoloration and water stains, seal both sides and edges of the image.  This is especially important if the image is printed on an ink-jet printer. Allow the paper and sealant to dry completely before covering the images with resin.

Glue the image to surface to prevent floating and possibly trapping air bubbles which may show up later. Let adhesive dry completely before adding resin.

Resin magnifies images and makes them surprisingly clear. Make sure your paper is exactly the way you want it.

Flowers and other vegetation need to be dried before use.

Seal dried flowers, candy sprinkles, etc., with a spray sealer such as Krylon to prevent discoloration.

If using dyes or pigment, add a small amount at first. Generally, a little goes a long way.

Do not apply a sealer over the top of embellishments with facets. It will form over the facets and reduce the sparkle.

Apply the resin a little bit at a time. Depending on the resin, it can pour quickly. Pouring from a smaller cup is easier to control.

Leave a bit of resin in the bottom of yoru pour cup.  You can then touch the resin in the cup to check to see if your resin is cured. This way you dont stick your finger in and ruin your work.

Use a blow dryer or rubber stamping heat gun to get rid of air bubbles. If the hair dryer is too strong, hold it further away to keep from blowing the resin out of the bezel cup or container.  A hot hair dryer may also melt your mold.

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I am new to this whole thing and I have 1000000 questions haha.

When you pour the resin into your mold and you have a laminated picture, how do you get it into your project? Once it is poured do you just lay it on top and it will stick or if you glue it how do you keep the glue from showing and when do you glue it? I have just bought products to make coasters with kids pictures in them. PLEASE give me STEP BY STEP instructions after mixing so say start at the pouring stage PLEASE and THANK YOU!!

Also, what type items can I use for molds? We need around 300 for Vacation Bible School projects? I need a very cheap mold to do a coaster or possibly something along that size?

When using a laminated picture, trim the lamination away close to the picture edge, but not right on it. This little bit of a border will still keep your picture sealed and keep the resin from creeping in, but will still be clear (invisible) in your casting.

Do you want the picture to be on top of your finished casting? Where you want it when you are finished will determine when/where you place it as it relates to your mold. If you are pouring into a mold with the idea that you will pop the resin out and the part touching the inside of the mold will be the top, then you will want to pour and add your pictures in face down. (I know this comment sounds confusing. Youve inspired me to make a video to cover the topic.)

As for cheap molds in bulk, I would suggest trying a restaurant supply store. You might be able to get some implements there. Do you know a restaurant owner? Buying their food in bulk also means they get lots of containers with lids? You might be able to use them. Experiment first though. I dont have any concerns that the resin will cure in it, but I worry about you getting it out (use some mold release) and how it will look (the resin will take on any textures in the surface). I am also going to post this topic in the forum to get others to comment. Look for it under how can I .

Are there any topics you would like to see articles on?

A better magazine theme would make the blog nicer.:)

H! Dont know if this is too late for you or not, but, JC, you can make your own molds with a bake-able clay like Sculpey and a product caleld Amazing Mold Putty which you can buy at any Hobby Lobby or, I believe, Micheals. For example, say you want a square pendant. Simply make a square out of clay, bake the clay to harden it and then use the mold putty to capture that square base for you to pour in your resin. Hope this helps! 🙂

As Tanapol mentioned, the silicone mold putty and modeling clay are great for making molds! We have both of them here:

My piece has set overnight and now i see three cat hairs. What can i do about that? I am sure there is no way to soften the epoxy to get them out. Can i sand them and then put on another coat?

Yes, if you can sand it off, you can pour more resin on top or use our resin sealer spray. with a coarse grit sandpaper (400 or so) and work your way down until you get a smooth finish with a 1000 grit sandpaper.

You mention to prevent discoloration and water stains, seal both sides and edges of the imageWhat are some of the ways I can seal them? I have Liquid Sculpey, Mod Podge, Judikins MicroGlaze, and Sculpey Glaze

This blog post should answer your questions:

Ive seen silver jewelry were colored resin is floating between the silver strands to create a stained glass look. How would you go about this? Could you somehow use wax paper as a backer then remove it once the resin is cured?

You will want to use masking tape as your backer. Press your wire template firmly onto the tape and pour your resin as usual. I show the technique in this video:

I have been enjoying working with resin but I have not yet been able to find out how to avoid the rim that forms on the outer edge of a piece of work in a flat mould. I have tried sanding it down but it takes an age and is not a good finish. I would appreciate comment on this please. Many thanks.

What youre experiencing is the effect of the surface tension of the resin next to the mold. (I dont the exact physics here) You will need to sand the edge down to get it even.

I am working on a sign for a friend that will be primarily outside, in the FL sun. It is a metal sign and Ive painted it with Acrylics. I also want to glue paper designs to it. I need to use something that will keep the water out and also not damage the paper designs. I have been all over the internet and am not sure how to go about it. Do you have any suggestions? Is resin the way to go? Should I not do the paper designs at all?

Hi there, If i were to print the image with my ink jet, what paper material am i supposed to use?

I like to use a bright white paper, not necessarily photo paper. (In my experience, the images on photo paper will sometimes smear, even with glue). Regardless of what paper you use, you will need to seal it before embedding in the resin.

Hmm. I dont know that resin is the easiest choice here. Since it is going to be outside, I would suggest using either polyurethane or polyester resin. Both will cure hard, however, they each have disadvantages. The polyester resin is cheap, but will yellow with exposure to UV light. (It will happen quickly in FL!) The polyurethane is pretty durable, but can be downright crabby to work with in Florida (and is a bit more expensive). Polyurethane hates moisture (humidity included)! The only way I could get polyurethane resin to consistently work here in FL was to use it in a room that was completely sealed off with the dehumidifier running. I had to get the humidity levels under 50 percent for it to work. Regardless of which one you choose, be sure to take the proper safety precautions.

Hoping you can help me as Ive scoured the net looking for answers and fixes with no success. The craft I was making was a candy toilet seat for my bathroom. My husband and I followed the instructions in the book I have, watched tutorials and researched the dickens before just diving in to make the seat. In spite of following the instructions, something went horribly wrong. The reaction was so bad that parts of the mold actually melted and warped and some of the candies literally cooked and melted.

After letting it set up, I was able to take the seat out of the mold and in feeling mold, there are ripples and some bubbles in places where the reaction was intense it melted the plastic. To say I was disappointed is an understatement because we followed the directions and cant figure out where it went wrong. The first two layers went fine. It all seemed to go kablooey in the last pour/set up.

Do you know if I attempted to try the seat again, will the ripples be able to be sanded out so the seat is smooth as it should have been or is it a total loss on that part of the mold? If the seat part is a total loss, do you know of anyone who sells just one piece instead of the set? In your experience, can you explain as to why this reacted the way it did and if reattempted what should be done differently?

Appreciate any input as this project has been a huge disappointment.

I have answered your question in our resin jewelry forum under troubleshooting.

I wrapped some large resin blocks that i have made in bubble wrap for safty in transportation. On unwrapping them the bubble wrap has left an impression on the surface. Has anyone any ideas how to remove this please. These pieces were so difficult and time consuming to make.

I dont know how deep your marks are, but this discussion on the forum may help:

Hi there, I want to coat a table top. I have yet to decide whether I will set a picture or actual items in the resin. In any case, Im not sure how to control the flow of resin of the edges of the table ? Do I just let it run off naturally and sand it down after or is there another method ? Appreciate any advice. Many thanks.

Put a ridge of high quality masking tape around the edge of the table. The resin wont stick to the tape and you will be able to pull it away once it cures. You may have to do a little bit of sanding to get off the grainy appearance once youre done.

I want to make orgone pyramids, using resin and stones/crystals. but I have heard you can only make them in temperatures above 70 degrees, and that making resin items in doors is very toxic, any tips? Also in the pyramids I have seen the stones float in the resin, how is this achieved? if that is not too big a questionmanythanks

Epoxy resin is generally safe to work indoors provided you have enough ventilation and wear safety gloves. To make the stones float in resin, you will need to pour in layers. You can see what Im referring to in this tutorial:

My house has beautiful brass decorative backplates on the interior doorknobs but there are a few missing. Rather than replace them all with something new, Id like to try to make matching replacements for the missing ones. Ive been reading about resin and Im thinking about using clay to make a mould from an existing plate and then making new plates with resin. I plan to paint the finished pieces with metallic spray paint. Do you think resin is a good material for this? Any suggestions?

Yes, resin would work well. I would suggest a polyurethane resin for its durability and lower overall cost for the amount of resin youre going to need. (As a side note you can color the resin with metallic coloring no need to paint them!)

Hello- I want to attach transparency paper to the top of a thick glass paperweight- can easycast clear epoxy resin be used to adhere the paper? I plan to brush it generously underneath, place the image and let it cure, then a second application of resin over the top of the paper to coat and reduce the seam. I have already worked with the same paper embedding it in bangles with success but never with glass. Unable to find confirmation on this site or elsewhere- any help is appreciated.

@Gina Marie, I have never done what youre describing, but resin does stick to glass. I think it should work here.

Hi. I have a problem with micro bubbles. I use epoxy resin as a sealant between my pendant trays and images, and a coat between my image and glass cabochon overlay. My problem is this: Even when I get ALL bubbles out with heat (this includes first using heat on the layer of resin between the pendant tray and the image, and then again on the layer of resin between the image and the glass) and all bubbles are gone, after the resin starts to cure (about an hour or so into the process) dozens of little micro bubbles appear under the glass. By this point in time, the resin is too tacky to press on the glass to get the air bubbles to just seep out the sides (where the glass ends and the edged of the pendant tray begins) and removing the glass just ruins the image, and I have to re-pour all over again, only to have the same problem when the new layer starts to cure. Is there a way to prevent these micro bubbles from forming? Or should I using something other than resin for this job?

@Kaitlyn, I would suggest using a good glue instead of the resin for what youre trying to do. Normally, these microbubbles would pop and you wouldnt see them, but the glass cabochon is keeping them from escaping.

Hi Katherine! I love your site! Ive never worked with resin before but I am pretty crafty and refinish and upcycle furniture and home decor for a living. Im entering a county fair Upcycling crafts contest. Im going to take a stack of old Vogue and Harpers Bazaar magazines and make a stool or a kids chair out of it and Im hoping pouring resin over the stack will be enough to stick the stack together so that it becomes one piece . Can I then screw in a piece of plexiglass on top and bottom or will it crack? Should I brush it on or pour it? Im afraid pouring will make a puddle at the bottom? Lots of questions sorry but If you could start me in the right direction it would be most appreciated! Thank you!

@Lisette, Im not sure the finished product will be stable. Im thinking you would have better luck decoupaging the magazines over an already created form.

hI Katherine i hope you can help me. I too am having trouble with microbubbles. I make pendants using E6000 epoxy to seal my inkjet printed photos onto glass cabochons. I have had only two successful runs. The rest have been plagued by bubbles. No matter how hard or light I push they form either right after i mate them or not long after. I use glossy photo paper and glaze the back. I dont seal the photo itself but havent had any trouble with inks running. I was wondering about everything from the humidity to the quality of paper. Ive even tried uv epoxy with the same results. Im desperate because people want my pendants and love my designs but I need to find a solution before I can make a strong go of it. Hope you can help.

@Deborah, so that Im clear, the bubbles are forming between the glass cabochon and the paper?

Ciekawe naklejki na cian to fantastyczna ozdoba do kazdego domu! naklejki na cian naklejki cienne dekoruj

michael kors gia chain strap flap bag

I am going to make a wedding gift using metal house numbers. I am going to spray paint them and then place them in a frame to be filled with resin. Do you think that I need to seal the numbers before putting in the resin? If so, what would you suggest using to seal them?

@Amber, you shouldnt need to seal the metal numbers before putting them in the resin.

@Gail, I would try applying another layer of resin to the tray.

I recently had a glass resin finish done on a tray for an art auction at my school ( I am a teacher). Three weeks later i touched it and found parts are still sticky. I assume that the person who did the job did not mix the resin properly but now need your help!!!! Is there a way to fix the tray which was worked on for may hours by my class?

Hi Katherine I was just wondering if you could help me out because Im a year 12 student and currently am planning my body of work (final artwork). I am looking into doing sculpture or a collection of works and I want to see if I can use resin along with coral pieces and shells to create my own kind of reef. I have no idea of how to use resin or what it actually is and what effects it has on organic materials. Im thinking of experimenting with it to try and recreate sculpture pieces like these:

Would you have any idea of how to make resin like the ones in Shona Wilsons artworks? I would really appreciate it if you could help my out! Thanks, Heidi

@Heidi, in looking at the link you included in your comment, it doesnt look those art works were created using resin. Its not clear to me what youre trying to create.

I was casting some gems for a costume and the surface of a few of them are tacky while the rest of them are perfectly fine. They all came from the same pour so its not a ratio problem or Id be experiencing it in all the gems. What would get rid of the tackyness? Would covering it a clear coat of spraypaint work or would it harm it?

@MK, if they are just a little sticky (like touching the surface of tape), then yes, a clear coat of an acrylic based spray paint should be fine.

Hello! Ive inherited a dark glass dining table that has many scrapes and several deep scratches. I really like the table and am considering either painting the table or etching it. Do you think I could use the resin as a final coat?

@Luise, after you have fixed the scratches, a resin coating should work.

@Cindy, I havent done that. If you want to try, I would certainly seal them before using them in resin.

Want to use small mold with small cut up dried flowers. I have the different molds already. Can I paint some of the flowers to restore the color prior to using the resin?

@Katherine, thanks for your feedback. The tiny microbubbles tend to appear after the time its safe to pick at the resin (is really tacky) and they are impossible to get out with a needle/toothpick as they are so small. Any other ideas? Thank you

I am making resin pendants and earrings. I seal the images with modpodge and glue to the bezel base leaving them atleast 24 hours to dry before pouring the ice resin. 2-3 hours into the curing process, microbubbles appear in the resin (looks like dust). Can you please advise on potential cause and solution? Thanks in advance.

@Kim, I would suggest checking your pendants frequently (every 15 minutes or so) after you pour them to remove those bubbles. As resin cures (and subsequently heats up), sometimes bubbles are produced.

We just did a coffee table with bottle caps and poured the resin. After drying we noticed some caps were higher than others and not quite covered. We decided to spot pour to fill in but you can see ridges. Is there a way to get rid of them. Any help would be appreciated

@Deb, If you want an even layer, you are going to have to recoat the entire table

@Kim, my suggestion would be to try warming the bezel with a heat gun, then pouring a bit of resin. Make sure all the bubbles are out of that layer before pouring more. Warm again with a heat gun to get any additional bubbles to rise to the surface.

@Katherine, Thank you i will try this next pour 🙂

Ive tried a few castings with different embedded items and have found that plastics and such work fine for me, but I have encountered a thin layer of bubble its more of a film of bubble around a small sculpture of grey fiberboardnow it looks like some kind of surface tension thing. In places the resin has soaked in slightly to the board and so bonded nicely, even though it has made the board darker. But in other places the resin doesnt seem to have adhered and that there is a thin layer of air between sculpture and resin.

Ive seen a similar thing with some rough wood splinters Ive tried to embed. Is there something I can coat the fiberboard and wood with to prevent this film?

Many thanks for your time and experience.

@Chris, a clear drying glue or an acrylic spray should work well.

I am making a bathroom vanity using an old buffet. I would like to make a faux marble top with contact paper and epoxy. Any suggestions to prevent yellowing and a firm set? Edges?

@Kim, I would suggest using the Amazing Clear Cast resin.

i wrap a clear epoxy coated painting with plastic wrap. it left mark that i couldnt even get off with acetone. my only though it that i wrapped it too soon. please advise. i need to wrap the work and do not want marks left.

@larua, it sounds like your resin wasnt completely cured. You will need to recoat with another layer of resin.

I have a couple of necklaces that have resin pieces set in the metal. They are supposed to be white, but they have yellowed. Is there a way to paint them so that they will be white again and wear well? I thought about trying nail polish. What would you suggest?

I havent tried this, but others have told me that acrylic paint works well on cured resin.

I have a glass collage on a wooden board with a poured resin finish. I would like to paint a short verse on the lower corner. Would lettering using acrylic paint adhere to the gloss resin?

@Gerri, Yes, acrylic paint should adhere fine.

Hello, I am planning to use an old dresser as a bathroom vanity. My plan was to pour an epoxy glaze on the top flat surface on which the sink and faucet are mounted. When should I drill holes for plumbing connections? Before the epoxy goes on? After the epoxy has cured? Thanks for your input, this is a bathroom remodel project.

I would drill after the epoxy has cured.

Hi there, I have an old beautiful monkey pod wooden coffee table from Hawaii that I am looking to refinish. Its from the 50s and the main issue Im faced with is that the existing topcoat which I believe to be a epoxy resin has seen some wear and tear over the years and I have chips, scratches, a couple cracks. all of which are in the topcoat, not the wood that I want to correct to make the table look beautiful once again. Whats the best approach to tackling this? Do I fill the cracks in with epoxy resin and then sand it after its cured to blend into the topcoat, then after that step pour on a brand new top coat? Am I missing anything here? Also, can a oil based sanding sealer be used on top of the old topcoat before I begin sanding to help smooth things out and make the sanding in preparation for the new topcoat be easier? Thanks and take care!

If I were going to try this project, I would sand down/off the top layer of resin such that all the defects are sanded out. Be sure to end with a very fine grit of sandpaper (1000 or higher), otherwise, you will see sanding marks when you pour the next layer of resin. I would then put on a new top coat. I would not use an oil based anything on the resin. Resin can be a little crabby with things like that.

I would like to cast some old movie reels in resin to use as a seat on a bar stool in my theater room. Would I be able to drill into the resin to mount onto the stool?

I am coating wooden chopping boards with resin, but Im finding small air bubbles are forming, (after removing the normal bubbles with a flame torch), that its too late to get rid of them, then I have to sand and re-pour! I do seal the wood first but it doesnt make any difference. Any suggestions?

What are you using to seal the wood?

Im using liquitex gloss medium varnish over the acrylic ( no bubbles form there) and on the wood where the bubbles/gas forms.

Hmm. Im not familiar with that product. Perhaps two to three coats of it before pouring the resin? My thought is that there bubbles that are being release during the resin curing process. I suspect that while the resin is heating up, it is drawing more bubbles to the surface through the liquitex. Maybe another couple of coats will keep the bubbles sealed in.

Thanks but I already apply 2 coats. Could it be the room is to warm?

I doubt it, unless you are working in an oven. 😉 Is the wood very porous?

It can get very warm.. If the resin sets to quickly can it cause this reaction with the wood. The wood is sealed and it doesnt seem porous at all when I coat it. Im stumped. Ive just poured an acrylic mix with resin on the wood and it worked beautifully. But the resin by itself on the wood.. Is proving to be difficult.

Assuming your resin is as close to bubble-free as possible when your pour it, my two thoughts are that either the resin is reacting with something or trapped air is being released later. So its not bubbling if you put the acrylic layer on first? Im not clear when the bubbles are occurring.

I am interested in make a beach themed table; sand, seashells and then covering it with resin. Does anyone know the best way to do this or how resin and sand interact. I was worried about the sand absorbing the resin.

Hi Lewis, we have some discussions going on in our forum that should help you:

I need to make a mold that is very long and rectangular. What product can I use that will leave clean lines and not stick to the resin. I had heard that polypropylene doesnt stick. Is that true?

Polypropylene usually doesnt stick to resin, but I dont think you will get the clean lines you want. In this case, I would suggest making a silicone mold.

Can you cut cured 3/4 deep resin with a table saw? Will it shatter on the cut seam?

Depends on the kind of resin. I would be more concerned that it would not withstand the heat from sawing.

I am looking to make a hanging faux stained glass window for privacy in the window inside my shower. The window does get a damp, but not soaked, and gets a few hours of sun per day.

I am thinking of using plexiglass as the base. My plan is to sand the plexiglass, wipe it down with rubbing alcohol to remove any oil and dust and apply self adhesive led strips for my outlines, then pour eyeshadow tinted resin to make my glass.

Can you suggest the best resin for this project?

Will it need to be sealed with something to protect it from dampness?

Ive never worked with resin before, but Ive always wanted to and I cant wait to start!

I havent tried anything like this, so Im afraid I cant recommend a resin. I would expect resin would adhere to the plexiglass, but I dont have any experience with it, so I dont want to tell you for sure that it will work. You will also need to find a way to adhere the LED strips to the plexiglass to make sure the resin doesnt leak underneath. I wouldnt expect adhesive strips to be enough of a barrier. Since you are new to resin and this is an ambitious project, I would suggest this blog post for reading as well: are going to need to attack this project in small steps, doing experiments along the way, before going after your large scale idea.

I am planning on doing a craft paper counter top as part of a kitchen remodel. I really want to use epoxy instead of a polyurethane type sealer. I am concerned about how to address the sides of the back splash and the edges of the counter. Can epoxy be brushed on those edged and then just poured on the flat surface where it will be more vulnerable to wear?

An epoxy is going to go on thick and will want to run off the sides. You may have to use a polyurethane sealer on the vertical surfaces, then use an epoxy on the horizontal surface.

Hi i want to use resin on a hair project

Im a licensed cometologist and im in a big show i would like to knw more about the proportions to use and what to use to paint it on.

I dont understand your question. Do you want to paint resin onto to peoples hair and skin?

I am planning on glazing deer antler slices with easycast epoxy resin. I have a few questions regarding the application. What would I use to glaze just the